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A is what it should look like but I've seen many with less ink in it and still work. When it's full like that on the right it can indicate that you're using a bulk system that doesn't use mid cartridges or there might be a small air leak somewhere throwing off the pressure.

Yeah boot up holding function and remote. It will add those menus to the regular menu.

1. The machine has a special nozzle check that prints black and then white on top. It will show any missing white nozzles just like a normal nozzle check. It's in the same menu as the regular nozzle check so the person you are buying from should know how to do one for you. 2. You can download...

Are you using a bulk system at all? Have you flushed your machine any time recently?

Your particular model has fewer trained techs on it which makes sense why you're having a hard time finding one. You could try American Print Consultants. They might have someone in your area.

Nope!

The QR code on Mutoh heads is a serial number for tracking and warranty purposes.

That looks very much like an improper offset setting to me. If you have it set to the proper number for your blade, you might be allowing too much or too little of the blade to poke out of the holder or the blade might be broken as well.

This link will bring you to a page that has a ton of profiles for that setup: https://mimaki.com/product/inkjet/print-cut/cjv300_plus-series/profile.html?riptype=RasterLink&model=CJV300-160+Plus&config=8&colorset=CMYKLkOr&ink=SS21#r

They're mostly Google powered ads along with another 3rd party. The short of it is . . . . . cookies.

In general you want to print with heat but turn it off when cutting. I know Mimaki printers have a setting that automatically turns off the heat after printing.

Running it without the heads installed will most likely give a head temp error. It needs to get a reading from the head thermistor and if it doesn't, it defaults to too cold.

They try to play it off as if it's protecting the customer from themselves and pretend like there is some proprietary information in service mode they need to protect. At the end of the day it's all about padding their bottom line and they don't care at what cost to the customer. The only thing...

Yeah you should be fine if it's a full blown Flexi and not one of those brand specific versions. I'm not sure if it will RIP two files at once but it will allow simultaneous printing once the files are RIPed.

I'm just getting in and hearing about this this morning so bare with me if I don't have all the facts yet. First of all, we're going to work with you and Mutoh to get this resolved ASAP. I already have an email into them this morning. So rest assured that is in the works. Secondly, the issue...

Unfortunately, if the fuses are good, this usually means the head is fried. Did you check the fuse on the CR board as well. It's the board the other end of the head cables plugs into. Normally cables don't cause the head to not fire at all. If the cables are bad you usually either get a head...

The easiest way to do it is going to be doing everything through Flexi since that is where you want to print from. It sounds like you can get the registration marks to read in Flexi but the alignment is off? What you want to do is create a file that prints and cuts a crosshair. Then print and...

Do you see ink in the ink lines above the dampers? Does ink flow into the waste tank when running cleanings?

You most likely popped a fuse on the main board. It's a tiny ceramic fuse that is located on the corner of the board right by the large black heatsink. I believe it's labeled F2 or F3. If you know how to test fuses, you can test it first but it's almost always the fuse when the head goes through...

That means the Cyan and Magenta Cartridges aren't reading properly. Try reseating the cartridges first. Sometimes the cards are just misaligned.