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I have the CJ 500 converted to 11/10 ecosol ink and have the FJ 42 left as waterbased using cave paint pigment inks (way cheaper and look great but you will need new profiles as the magenta is stronger).
The reason is there will always be some jobs where you want to just print and cut without...
Not sure if what you are wanting is mainly a thicker laminate that gives rigidity to graphics. If so Mondrian Hall (Unisource just bought them) has a line of laminates from 5mm to 15mm. One is called Print Shield Polycarbonate. About 3-4 times the cost of regular laminate.
I have never seen...
No and yes..... I have kind of half and half. I had a trial set of 11/10 440ml carts but 3 of them would not set in place fully. I had to use 3 refill carts to dump the ink into to be able to try the ink out.
I take it you do not use the original CJ 500 drain line then, you go right from...
Just wondering if any other CJ 500 owners that have converted to solvent, have changed their drain line tubes to a larger diameter tube?
The very thin drain line works well with waterbased but the solvent seemed to dry and plug quite easily.
I picked up some black brake hose tube and set it...
You would not need heat for the aqueous pigmented ink. When the conversion is done you need heat strips or plates to place in the back before the print head gets to the vinyl then another in the front after the printhead. You can buy kits that have the heat strips and a nice neat box for the...
When you try to print and cut your row, are they being printed with the cut line being printed as well? If so, something in the images is fighting with the cut line. If not printed then your cut lines are done propper, just some other issue.
From what you say it sounds like the exact same...
trying to get a photo placed. Ok the left is the solvent and had been varnished and I scratch tested to see if the vanish would stick. The right is Aqueous pigment and had not been varnished yet. The solvent photo has glare off of it so it is not flaking. That is the glare from the varnish.
Canvas ( Solvent vs Aqueous )
I have Canvas Mac 7 ( Rolands Product ) and it says you can print with eco sol and aqueous inks. I have done both with the same printer and file. I started with the CJ 500 with aqueous pigmented inks and now have a FJ 42 dedicated to just fine art printing with...
I was doing some fooling around on some media and printed without any heat. Now this is on a converted CJ 500 but without heat the ink was able to be scratched off. This was done on some clear cling. On some media like banner material it won't even scratch off without heat. Possibly the...
Do you have any other media to print on.. like a banner material to see if it too scratches. Then you may look at the ink as an issue. I agree with you that you should not be able to scratch the ink off like that.
Hi,
Do a quick search with the search feature on the CJ 500 conversion. There is a bunch on the site from past posts on what you need to do it. It's too much to retype all that you can find already here. Once you get a bit of an idea and need to go over things to clear up how to do's then PM...
What material are you trying to print on?
I was having some major issues with oracal 3641 getting the print to look good. I was getting too much ink layed down as well. I tried many profiles and the one that seems to work the best was for a banner material WTBM and I used the super...
I would say if it's already converted and with heaters (most likely not home made heaters which would be even better) that is a very good price. Make sure you have the software that will let you design stuff and print out of. Illustrator will work with the Roland colorchoice that comes with...
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