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Oh we use the adhesion promoter listed above as well (lucky to be in Australia). I was just discussing our cleaning process. Printing on the "air" side of the glass is preferable. The plate side apparently has more contaminants on it. We get our glass guy to mark in on the sheet when delivered.

How odd... for dirty glass well use these in the following order: - Xylene - Acetone - Isopropyl alcohol Always gloved up and masks on. Some nasty stuff, but haven't seen a streak in 5+ years.

Wow, that's some bad luck. We've done it for 6 years on our Arizona with zero issues. Did you try acetone?

You could do that... but your profiles will be off. We converted CMYK to 257 and re-profiled all modes immediately. The Océ 257 pre-made profiles were terrible at the time, unsure if they've been updated since. We kept 256 white as 257 white is more "blue" and far more difficult to keep the...

We did this about 2 years ago with the short flush method. I think it took around 20 mins per colour. Our tech advised to just do one colour at a time which worked fine for us. Not sure if you can turn back and do this method, but I'd suggest it if possible. It doesn't waste that much more ink...

Looks like a S60600 test pattern.

Any luck for us overseas people on that material? So sick of hemming by hand, but we don't do enough to warrant buying a machine either.

You're not wrong there. We have a laser with excellent fume extraction and acrylic cutting still smells a bit. You do not want to be venting this straight out into the workshop. Be interesting to see what Colex's answer to that is. I haven't looked into their machines for a few years now.

And translated: Some people recommend using a CO2 laser, but it can only be surface engraved. If deep gravure printing is required, a CNC is required to ensure that the vibration-free liquid cools. The tool is crucial.

R2R UV is blisteringly quick (on our Arizona) for white printing onto clear or coloured vinyl. For everything else, I'd still rather use our Epson at 80% of the speed and far superior output in both resolution and colour.

The download tool hasn't worked for 10.2 drivers for a while now. That being said, I can't even see a 5800 driver on my 10.2 DVDs, only 5500.

What about Tyvek?

Current equipment: - Oce Arizona 360GT - Epson S80600 - Canon PRO-6000 With a gun to my head, the Epson S80600. It's quick enough for most production work. Inks are virtually dry when they hit the take-up, but we'll generally wait before laminating. Anything the UV does, the Epson could...

Sorry, the S80600 is our first Epson printer.

Yes, we run ours without silver or white. Works perfectly in 9 colour mode. Here are a couple of plots I did showing the gamut difference between CMYK and CMYKOR from our S80600. (Light CMK shouldn't expand the gamut, they're only there to reduce grain/stepping). Pretty visible how the...

Sounds like a job for a Fotoba cutter.

Literally only difference with the L version is bulk ink attachment. Brings ink pricing down ~20% compared to 700mL tank pricing per volume.

...or just back it up with white vinyl. That being said, 3M 8518 has worked well for us in the past.

They've obviously never heard of inflation. We've owned our Epson for 2.5 years and the prices of ink have remained the same the entire time, with a warning from our local dealer that prices will increase by the end of the year which sounds fair enough to me. It's not Epson's fault they bought a...

We make our own. Canned profiles generally aren't that great we've found. Wider gamut and usually less ink usage if you can make your own. That being said, the S80600 is very forgiving when it comes to profiles. I occasionally will need to do a one-off print on an odd media we don't have a...