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I've uploaded a revised design of the 90 deg elbow. This will accomodate a 100mm ID PVC pipe and will attach to my next design of a T piece for the other outlet. https://www.printables.com/model/1011868-mimaki-fume-extraction-fitting-90-degree-v3

Thought I might start a thread on 3D printed parts you might need for your Mimaki. Mimaki HQ here wanted $150 ea for the fume extraction fittings. I had one of the original and thought I could atleast try to print it. Here's the file. It should also accomodate any other machine with the...

So... what worked this time is 1. power of the computer, then the printer. 2. Reboot the printer first all the way up. 3. Then boot the computer 4. start RL drink whiskey.

All my IP's are static. Nothing new has been added. My network is more secure than the Harris presidency.

I can ping my IP of the printer. I can ping the IP of the printer from other computers. I can see the address in my router. No hardware or software has been installed since last use. I've rebooted, hard restart, turned the printer off/on, prayed to the gods... Next will be a sacrifice to...

Amazon, ebay, aliexpress.... just make sure you get the permanent chip for your machine and inkset and colours.

i would look at investing in some permanet chips and possibly a "CISS" (bulk ink system) for your machine. The permanent chips will easily rest and let you use the remainder of the ink in the cart. The bulk ink system personally in my opinion is a hands down winner. the ink system might cost you...

This morning I swapped over the magenta and Kay dampers, did an ink fill and then a test print. The black/Kay fired perfectly in place of magenta. So I know there's no supply issue. Magenta in the two centre channels didn't fire at all. What I can confidently confirm so far is... 1. All ink...

"Chinese". Yes. Cheap. No. I've used my same supplier for over 5 years for parts and never missed a beat

It sounds like an air leak, due to the ink gradually dropping out. Could be. Maybe from the cart end? but I would see bubbles in the line yeah? Or would it just reduce the vacuum? Usually not getting a good enough prime when cleaning. Are the dampers nearly empty? Nope. dampers are full and...

If anyone would like to know, there is no required condition to enter the serial number of the head into the ujf 7151 series. However, you do need to manually enter the A and B values for each head and also enter/correct the voltage required. Here's the breakdown of what means what from the...

So, this particular jv33-160 has become my white whale. So far I've successfully changed it from running BS inks, replaced the ink lines and various consumable parts etc to get it up and running to be a stable solvent printer. But... I'm having this continuous issue of nozzles dropping out after...

I've searched throughout the profiles listed on colourbase https://colorbase.com/ and theres only 2 or 3 profiles of media under SS21 inks that utalise CMYK and Lc & Lm. these are 3m profiles. Have you changed the parameters for the ink fillup? if not, before you start this process, you will...

You need to do more than adjust your rip program. You need to physically change the ink configuration inside the machine. The JV33 models are set up for dual CMYK carts with UISS (Uninterupted Ink Supply Service). If you want to run 8 colours, you need to remove the T joints in the ink hoses...

Can anyone tell me how to change the serial number for a print head and also what is what from this reference? How do I know what the voltage is for this print head?

You can always use 5 and if you want to experience 6, upgrade for free. But reallistically, you only really use 2 or 3 profiles overall. And you are correct. RL7 does not support these models of UJF. It doesn't like the USB interface.... It's mimaki's way of saying "Just buy a new machine"...

Repairing about 12 of these units over the last few years, I've now run into this issue. I'm replacing the head and these errors are popping up. So... Head toast? Ribbons? Board?

Aussie standards are a bit more different to the states. We can't have any sharp edges. So all corners need to have a 5mm radius and edges need to be rounded. Unfortunately that means the stack and paint option wouldn't really fly. Yes... There are people in Australia who wouldn't be so worried...

The process I know and understand, i.e. routering and folding etc. But rather than folding it by hand, is there any benchtops/small setups around that will aid in the folding? I've seen it done on a CNC, so the principal is there. I'm thinking something like a small edge bander hybrid sheet...

WHat are you talking about? I want to use a substrate we use on a regular basis but finish it as per the above image.