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Well, first off, getting the new belt fed through the rail isn't too difficult, just use electrical tape to tie it to the old one and then just pull through. Be careful to not kink, bend, or dent the new belt; those all can cause premature failure. As for the tensioner, it has two Phillips...

Hmm. Looking at OSHA's site, it seems that all of their posters are actually freely available. So the easiest thing would be to just download the PDFs of the needed posters and print them. OSHA statement here: http://www.osha.gov/Publications/workplace_poster_page.html List of publications...

Your steel belt snapped. It's not all that difficult to change, but the tension has to be set properly or the new belt will snap. Are there any Mutoh techs near you?

Depends on the style of the sign. If it's just simple logos and lettering, then the easiest and fastest way to do it would be to cut reflective vinyl.

Uline... nearly any other industrial supply house...

BTW, most parts on the GS6000 are identical to Mutoh parts, which may wind up costing less. I have changed the individual bearings on those pulleys, but you need to have a good set of tools and be able to remove and install press-fit (metric) bearings...

What I meant was that you don't really want to use a wood bit to cut Dibond. You should use either a multipurpose or soft metal bit. Soft metal is better for straight cuts in large quantities, while multipurpose bits like V-bits let you do partial cuts for making bends in the Dibond. The...

If the correct bit is used, the edge should be nice and clean. We cut Dibond all the time on our Esko router and rarely ever have to clean it.

Heh. That's a Mutoh ValueJet head carriage knockoff. I doubt the printer firmware is going to be anywhere close to being compatible with the JV33 firmware. Quick question: To make it work, did you have to install a USB dongle and some Chinese controller software? Also, for those bulk ink...

If it was too hard for him to cut, it's because he's using the wrong bits. You need to use aluminum bits with Dibond; ordinary plastic or wood routing bits won't cut properly.

For what it's worth, as of V9 Caldera is licensing the i1Prism2 engine (which is inside the current i1Profiler) for use in EasyColor. V8 used i1Prism 1, which was used in ProfileMaker 5.

It's unlikely for Wasatch to just suddenly change your colors without some variable changing first. Here's the likely suspects: - Environmental conditions changed? - Printhead quality affected? (color cross-contamination, etc -- to check, print a nozzle check and look for color shifts in the...

I still think ProfileMaker has a much nicer interface than i1Profiler, but I guess it's too advanced for the QA testers at X-Rite :( However, PM5 does have some glitches in its ICC generation that cause it to really kill the color gamut for multicolor profiles. i1Profiler does a much better job...

By any chance, are you using a VJ-1614 or newer machine?

We have an LX850 at our shop (probably not exactly the latex you were looking for, heh) and so far the main issues we've had with it are: 1. Printing on very open mesh materials fails -- if the mesh is too open, the temperature sensors don't function correctly; however, I don't think the L25500...

According to one of the FLAAR reports, CET is now distributing printers built by a company of ex-Flora engineers, which probably explains their current product lineup differences. Flora and AOjet seem to be the same.

As far as I can tell, CET doesn't advertise or sell that model any more. That's the X-Press F512, right? The largest true flatbeds advertised on their site today are 4x8. Anything larger you have to go hybrid. Hmm. Flora's 6x10 is identical to AOjet's... wonder who's distributing who...

D'oh. I just realized that I put 5x10 instead of 4x8. I meant that CET and Flora only offer 4x8 true flatbeds, and to do anything 5x10 you have to go to the hybrids. I know that the next true flatbed size up is 6x10, that's why I said it's a Euro-sized flatbed. 16 heads? You'd have to do that...

I'm not too sure about all the Hotronix love here. The Hotronix 16x20 presses I've seen in high production environments haven't held up too well; the electronic controls are too overly sophisticated (Touchscreen? On a heat press? REALLY?) and tend to flake out. I'd go with a workhorse Insta any...

What are you using right now? It always helps to have a baseline to start from. HP's web site is also a good resource. They've done plenty of comparative studies with solvent printers. Odor is going to be the #1 thing you'll miss about your solvent printer (kidding!) The only time you'll smell...