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Definitely a pain, my boss takes these jobs all the time. We've had luck tearing the premask off in strips prior to installation of hardcore curves but YMMV.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This makes so much sense. Thank you. :thumb:

I've not printed on them but the clear bra/PPF films are plenty conformable and optically clear.

This is not flawed logic. However they are going to be wondering wtf you're shooting up when you're bringing in CMYK covered needles haha. "Must be some good ****."

I always cut a slit in the tape as well and it splits the green tape as it cuts with the vinyl, but I may be doing it wrong. Do you guys split the green tape like me or pull the filament to one side to where it comes from under the green layer, without splitting the tape? I haven't had any...

You know, that wouldn't be a bad re-brand considering I have accepted a position in Florida and will be moving in the near future.

These damn liberals and their safety rulers I tell ya whut.

The ammonia is only part of the problem, it tends to leave behind a slippery film, especially on glass. Almost like a 'clear coat'. I have an installer who says he same thing "I've never had any problems" and he used to work at one of the worst reputation shops in town. Yeah...not here...

I've done that a few times with my Summa. I'll go from cutting reflective to regular vinyl and boom, stencil party.

We have our LRPD account and use the same Oracal the other guys have mentioned for most of the die-cut stuff, but also print the badges on 3M 5100. Wayyy better than Edge printing, and much faster.

No, it is actually a font, that is part of a Typeface. If you're going get technical, at least be accurate.

Matthews ADA clear, and their Satin line on many clear vinyls. I don't recommend their Low-VOC.

Works fine on my 360.

Pretty please.

The way I do big sheets (usually Avery Etchmark frost) is we start a "leader" by peeling back about 3-6 inches of backer and fold the backer over on itself. From there we spray down the window and squeegee the lead edge down butted up against the top usually. Once that's in place and the top is...

This. You may want 2 layers of application tape just for the extra thickness, this is how I used to cut .020 styrene on a CNC router. Same principal though.

I could probably snag the oldest one but they're all trolls haha. Thanks Jill, yes, no house to sell, but it'll be a year or so until I make a real decision, job will most likely dictate where I end up since I have the skills to pretty much work anywhere. Just because I've had a few...

I get what you're trying to do with the leaves/aperture logo but it definitely doesn't come across that way to non-industry people and looks like hooves like others are saying. I do like Tiki's design concept, and also like font on the cartoony one. Off-topic: And just to point out, all...

I and a lot of people use Finish Carpenters belts from Home Depot/Lowes. They are the perfect size and paired with a big D ring for a tape roll, you can't go wrong.

Get a handheld torch and practice with scrap material. Trust me IJ180 will get plenty soft to wrap anything. You can even heat it until it's smoking (not burning) and that's pretty much it's breaking point. Of course you don't have to get it that hot but if your heat gun won't even get it...