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I order my banner from GSG...they have their line Starprint, and it comes in 39"! It is perfect for 36" banners with 1" hems.

LOL..someone disagreed with this. Uh, ok. I mean, I get it if buying a whole new machine just isn't in the budget for you, but nothing I said is untrue.

I have this problem as well on our 560. I think a hardware update is needed, as I don't think I had this happen until the latest one. It's a pain, especially when I'm in a hurry, cancel a job for whatever reason, restart and then wonder why nothing is printing 15 minutes later.

There IS a right answer....if this is a common problem (meaning you are printing lots of vehicle wraps/full rolls), then it may be wise to invest in a Latex printer. Nice and dry, ready for laminate right off the printer.

Avery 3303 is a promotional grade cheap cal vinyl. You say you want strong adhesive? That has normal adhesive. If you want really high tack, then you want Arlon DFP 8000 or even GF 201 HTAP. If you just need a regular permanent adhesive on an air-egress vinyl, I recommend Avery 2903, which I...

Yes and it depends on which hemisphere you live in.... LOL. Never have I heard a reasoning for weed direction being based on the blade angle. What happens to vinyl cut with a 35 blade?

Those prices need to be a scaled price....meaning smaller jobs are higher per s/f than a larger job. For example, a 2x6 banner might be at $8 s/f, whereas a 5' x 10' banner might be at $6.50 a s/f (not saying that's our pricing...but not far off).

We have updated a couple of Designer only subscriptions to 19. So far haven't seen any more problems than we usually have with Flexi. Have not updated our FlexiSign & Print yet; still on 12, and it's not subscription so not shelling out the money yet. Seeing the issues others are having with...

We save a few large tubes that banner comes in and roll loosely in those. Many of them we ship flat though, depending on how big they are. Either HD cardboard or Coroplast, sandwiching the graphics. And I missed what you meant about masking vertically? I don't think it matters which way you...

I have issues once in a while with cast vinyl sticking to powder coated aluminum. It's hit or miss. Haven't ever laid 180 V3 on any though, we always are laying cut white or black on powder coated. I would suspect anything that's removable/repositionable will be harder to keep down. But I bet...

Try General Formulations 201-HTAP

No, while usually sarcastic, I was serious. Now that I look at it closer I think I see the seam you mentioned (but it looks like reflection)....But still, I've done and seen enough wraps to detect one vs paint vs plasti-dip....and the glare/reflections on this car looks like paint. Maybe I don't...

Something isn't right then. I just tried and with OPOS and barcode I can get it to 51.7" max. This is with Flexi RIP though, maybe Onyx adds some extra space.

You say "kiss cut"... are you doing a true kiss cut or do you just mean contour cutting on your plotter?

Your feed rate is off then if it bands at high pass. That stuff is thin so you need to increase the feed rate. Looked at the photos just now....looks like your heat settings are too high as well....lots of markings going on there.

Stick with 720x720 but go with smaller passes....like 6 pass for down and dirty and 10 or 12 pass for more precise work and solid colors. (* I don't know what pass settings you can set on the Mutoh....these numbers for reference)

Good luck getting the color you want....anywhere. Supply is less and less every day for cut vinyl. Unless it's black, white, blue, and other very basic colors. I just hunted for some Avery SC 950 in Real Red....no one has it. Everyone has to drop ship from the mfr., and only full rolls.

Oh we do that anyway....slight bleed AND margin marks (if white background).

I'm calling BS. That's a black car, factory paint

use MARGIN in Flexi RIP. Then you don't cut anything off when you cut one side.