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I don't want to be negative, but to be honest only offering $500 for a full truck design with a logo that needs a lot of work to vectorise with no guarantee you will win, may not attract too many designers...

127 dpi :/ Will look lovely at 6 foot wide on the side of a truck....

Do you have a vector copy of your logo...

Generic vinyl 1 as the profile should be fine. To be honest I use this most of the time and have never had any problems with the print.

Have you tried printing out any other print jobs rather than just the colour swatch? It may be something is corrupt in the swatch file and that is causing the problems with the colours. If it sat for 2 months, it could well be the one magenta channel is clogged badly enough that even a head...

I don't think that is a font. If you look at the two A's they are both different ( even if you unskewed the second one it would still be different from the first one ). Looks more like it has been hand drawn

Yes it should be fine. I have used old part used cartridges that have sat longer than that without any problems. Just give it a good shake before using

To be honest, tell the company to paint them. ALL parts for aircraft cost a fortune anyway, so the cost of painting them is neither here nor there as far as the end purchaser goes. Paint would also look better and last longer. Yes, you can use decals on jets, and people do ( have a search for...

After 8 years it is definitely overdue some TLC. Do the captop, dampers, wiper blades etc... and give everything around the head, head carriage and wiper station a good clean up. Also check all the hoses to and from the pump as the pumps do wear with time

Do you have two magenta cartridges loaded on the machine, and do both have ink in? You can set up the BN20 for various different ink combinations, so if you only have one magenta cartridge it will only print out one set on the test print

When did you last change your dampers and captop ? Normally when you get cross contamination its from this rather than a head failing. If the captop isn't making a proper seal it can lead to this. Do the test prints look ok after a cleaning? Also replace the ink lines from the captop to the pump.

If you are getting no black at all through it may not be a blocked head. Normally if a head is blocked you will get something coming through even if its only a little bit. You need to work out if the problem is with the head itself, or the signal being sent to it from the printer. First things...

yeah it is quite fiddly trying to diagnose them to that level. If you are getting a new board, avoid the chinese sellers selling cheap copy boards, try and get a used OEM Roland board. If the chinese copies work at all, they are unlikely to work properly and could cause more damage to the printer

The larger machines are better for die cutting. The BN20 is good, but is more of a hobby machine than an industrial printer. They would also replace the strips and blades a lot more often if the machines are putting out thousands of decals

A couple of basic things to check. First look at the cutting strip. These will often wear inconsistently so you can have grooves in some parts and not others. It should be smooth all the way across with no deep grooves or lumps or bumps. Also check the blade is spinning freely in the blade...

To test the carriage board though you really need to do it while the printer is running and have an oscilloscope. A multimeter won't be good enough to pick up the signals to the head

Yes, that is why I am thinking its more likely to be the carriage board in this case. Normally the transistors failing is from a short when someone has unplugged head cables without the printer being powered down completely

It is probably worth checking your mainboard transistors as well just to make sure they are ok, as if one has blown then that will stop printing on that channel

Not very easily, but it depends what the problem with it is. There aren't any fuses or transistors on the print carriage board, so it is more likely one of the chips on it has failed. If you can get the schematic for the board you can go through and test things if you know what you are doing...

If you get the service manual it will take you through the steps to change the head and calibrate it after fitting. It's not that hard to do, but you need to be VERY careful not to get ink onto places it shouldn't be !