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If youre making one, I'd make my strip a little wider and use a hole saw to cut the thumbhole and then cut through the hole; and if I was making multiples id try to butt them up side by side to make less cuts.

Othello Std

Id get a CNC, you can sometimes get a laser module to strap to the side depending on what brand you get.

We currently run a mimaki cg-fxii, that we got in 2015 with our printer, but before that we ran graphtec fc5100-100 & fc5100-75 (we still use the 75 from time to time, but the 100 [now in storage] got damaged by UPS when we sent it to back to Graphtec to be refurbished in 2012). We got those...

What are you cleaning the vehicle with? Are you using any adhesion promoters (like 3M primer 94)? Are you doing vertical or horizontal panels? Are you post heating the area to the mfg recommend temp (with a heatgun and IR thermometer)? One thing I try to do when doing the small grooves, is...

Its a little overkill, but we did sponsor banners, for local soccerfields, with a pillowcase banner over top of an agricultural gate (with the hardware cut off). Then we welded a 1in diameter by 6in pipe to a 3ft x 4in flat bar to make a foot that slid up into the bottom of the fence panel. We...

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On the contrary, I'd recommend signlab if all you're doing is cutting vinyl. They have a cut only version that is cheaper than the print & cut version. I've used signlab since 1998. We started with signlab 6 and we are using 10. It has the disadvantage that you might pay more up front, but there...

I'd show them prices on 1-10 batches up front. I'd charge them the regular rate for the single run and then discount them as they got more batches. But show them the grand total, when they get the 10th batch, that it would match their price or the $175 less or whatever. The only issue I see is...

I dont remember 7.1 supporting usb dongles, but you may need to run signlab in compatibility mode (right click on icon and go to properties. Look for compatibility and choose an earlier version of windows). The earliest version ive gotten to work with Windows 10 is 9.1 (we use 10 for our mimaki)...

I typically take the prints off the roll and stand them loosely coiled up on their side on a clean piece of coroplast on the floor. They usually stay put but sometimes I have to put a piece of tape at the top to keep it from unraveling and falling over. I usually dont do less than 24 hours dry...

I never do wet application. It reduces the adhesion during application and with all the holes even more so. We usually do not laminate, as one you would need to use a laminate with optically clear adhesive, and two if you do it wet, now all those holes are filled with water. The only way around...

Is it being caused by a dirty pinch roller?

It really depends on where the product will end up if you're checking color w/o a spectrometer. But if its just to see imperfections, we run daylight (5200-5500K) T5 bulbs in our shop. It just to helps to see the smaller imperfections (as it is a brighter light than cool white). We'll probably...

Start in the very middle if possible and work your way out in a circular pattern. Dont put transfer tape on it, take off as much of the backing as you can, go slow, and use a felt covered squeegee. A second set of hands to hold the opposite side your working on helps too. You'll need a heatgun...

I would probably go insane without either one of our EZ weeder or sheeter. Those 2 pieces of equipment (I actually have 4 - 2 of each in different sizes) are worth more than their weight in gold. We got ours nearly 20 years ago and they're still going strong. We've never used them to laminate...

What rip software are you using, rasterlink? I run our CJV150 & JV150 with Signlab 10 and their Visual Production Manager. In one of the printer settings in the VPM program, I can adjust the scale on the feed/width to accomadate for shrinkage/expansion automatically. I just print a scale...

I'd recomend getting a laminator (see if you can lease one). We still got our 44in ledco signmaster from when we had our Summa DC3. Then when we got our 1st mimaki (jv33-130), but before we got our gfp 455th, we would use frog juice or clearshield. Frog juice was better but was more expensive &...

Weve been using oracal 3641 with 210 laminate for years with no shrinkage on concession trailers (it takes the stone chips better for some reason than plain 3M IJ180C w/ 8518 - without any stone guard on top of that. We use 3M on all other wraps) and recently have started to have some of the...