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if you are happy with mimaki then just get the cjv300, it's faster (2 print heads) and has better ink configuations available for your color issue

you can make an aluminum tube frame (1" sq. tubing) then mount with L brackets but in the inside of the frame and then mount the sign to the frame with rivets and you won't see the mounting hardware. and 100% what everyone else said "you can't do the job with out screwing something in to the...

sounds stupid but have you done a manual cleaning? (while you are doing that make sure nothing is hanging from the print head, hairs, piece of the media from a head strike or something may gotten knocked loose)

looking at new printers. we have roland currently but getting some quotes and had a vendor quote the CJV150 series so wanted to see if anyone has this and if they have any issues. am i even comparing apples to apples? any issues with either printer?

i'm with you on the price thing Gino. customer always wants the Mercedes of signs at the Hyundai price...haha

other option sub surface print on clear rigid material and mount white vinyl to the back

made a card stock carrier and it seemed to work. got to the last 3" of the panel and it slipped so going to do a print mount. i am just going to figure the acrylic was too heavy. i will try cleaning the grit rollers and pinch rollers but they don't really seam dirty. perhaps the pinch rollers...

trying to print 3/8 acrylic on lej 640 flatbed and it's not pulling through. material has paper mask-no good. tried putting application tape on it-no good. now going to try a card board transfer/jig underneath. any ideas? maybe it's just too heavy for the rollers?

looks good just a matter of getting used to navigating the site.

dryer temp problem? wrong material profile and heavy deposit of ink for that color so it's not drying by the time it pulls back to cut? try not using the rollers, only use the end rollers.

thanks, i'll check them out

the light up part is new to me and they really don't have a preference they just want it to pop/stand out. that's the other reason i'm looking for advice. i think the halo would be a good effect but would the regular backlit/channel lettering be easier to read at night?

working on a job for a customer and part of it they want some LED lettering installed on the building. i don't do electrical but they said they would have their electrician hook it up. just looking for recommendations on what to use? i normally get my lettering like this from GEMINI and they do...

you can buy some substrates with different laminate finishes. try N. Glantz or harbor sales

we use roland the last 13 years started with the 30" then 54" and now 64". we find them easy to use, rarely break down, we can do a lot of maintenance our selves, our techs are close and are available pretty quick. price, space available and tech support are the three main things to consider...

fellers has a pretty good stock of application tapes give them a shot

what about mounting it to the would, adding your quote and then apply doming solution? http://daius.com/ you can get the do it your self kit. we use it all the time for small run decals in house

with all that said.... i would see if there is a local store that sells the bowflex unit you are looking at so you can give it a whirl. make sure it works for you, give it a test drive. then go online and try and find a used one. save you a tone of money.. i owned a gym, i was a physical trainer...

the novus works pretty good also maybe a little heat from a torch (just wave it over a few times). but like already mentioned if they are deep you will have to replace them

i thought you had a font question. sorry i just got caught up in the moment:bushmill::bushmill::bushmill::bushmill::bushmill::bushmill::bushmill: this is the font know as booze