Banding issues on VJ-1604

[desiree]

Newbie here.
I am having banding issues with my VJ 1604. We first did a media feed adjustment and it still seemed to be sloppy. So we have replaced the encoder wheel, and media feed motor and belt.
We have to run it in Profile IJ180-10 super fine mode for a quality print. Which can take all day to run a job not efficient in this business. I know this printer can print like butter.
Does anyone have any ideas on?

 

[rcboats1]

Have you done a nozzle test to make sure all are firing?

 

[MachServTech]

take a camera pic of the type of banding. I have a lot of problems with banding on the 1604 because of too much ink on the media. What kind of RIP are you using and have you performed all of the internal Mutoh media calibrations.

 

[randya]

Newbie here.
I am having banding issues with my VJ 1604. We first did a media feed adjustment and it still seemed to be sloppy. So we have replaced the encoder wheel, and media feed motor and belt.
We have to run it in Profile IJ180-10 super fine mode for a quality print. Which can take all day to run a job not efficient in this business. I know this printer can print like butter.
Does anyone have any ideas on?

If you are having to run in superfine, that says too much ink too fast = profile.

What RIP and version are you running?

 

[desiree]

charging battery now in camera. We are using Onyx 7-2. yes do nozzle check and clean every morning. this has been going on for more than 6 months.
I will check to see if we have done all internal Mutoh calibrations.
We have changed multiple profiles.

 

[desiree]

photo of banding

 

[rcboats1]

What material are you printing on? It almost looks like the "lines" are in the media.

 

[desiree]

Thanks to all that are helping me tackle this.
the material is 3m cv3. Plus this does it on all materials.

 

[Compilla]

What does the RGB palette looks like under the test print menu ?

 

[Bigdawg]

Don't have a mutoh but on my roland I'd take a look at the heat settings... also prefeed your material to stop any possibility of drag on the roll...

 

[dclet]

looks like a combination of both heat setting and feed....

in the manual located on the cd - "Media feed compensation"
you wanna look down at the bottom - "PF4:Micro Print" and maybe adjust there..

also I use a rectangle C: 45% M: 45% Y: 0% K: 10% (30” wide by 3”tall for example) and send that...it's a light purple and works well to help fix banding issues

 

[MachServTech]

Take a close look at your nozzle check and From the pictue it definetly could be advance banding. I have cured almost all of my banding issues by building all of my own profiles for the Mutoh VJ1604. A lot of it was caused by too much ink too fast.

 

[jiarby]

is "wave" pattern selected?

 

[LenXIII]

I have had the same banding issue he has. Im using a 1614 and tried the 3m180c-10 profile using that same material. At Graphics 2 the wave banding was almost gone, but still very noticable. I have tried the micr print adjust which seems to help get rid of the dark band, but then in between the waves its white. So it helps on the low side of the wave but makes it worse on the high side.

 

[dclet]

for what it's worth I could never get all the banding out of 3m180c-10....
I will not use it on certain things..

But don't neglect the heater settings...they can make a huge difference in print quality

 

[randya]

I have had the same banding issue he has. Im using a 1614 and tried the 3m180c-10 profile using that same material. At Graphics 2 the wave banding was almost gone, but still very noticable. I have tried the micr print adjust which seems to help get rid of the dark band, but then in between the waves its white. So it helps on the low side of the wave but makes it worse on the high side.

If you use a good metric rule to do the PF adjust, the micro adjustment is not needed.

Dark bands indicate the PF adjust value is too long
Light bands too short.

The PF adjust is a calibration of the PF encoder to media feed.
The PF adjust will print out a set of marks in what the encoder believes to be, let's say 500 mm.
You then measure the distance between the two marks and enter that value.
Every time you do a PF adjust it reverts back to default.
So you cant tweak it closer by just continuing to do PF adjustments.
Each one starts from scratch.

the longer your rule the more accurate you can measure (and estimate)
I use a 600mm rule and a 500mm PF and estimate to the nearest 0.0 mm.


With IJ180 you might try running 42 preheat, 30 platen heat and 50 dry.
The 42 preheat opens up the pores of the media and allows ink to penetrate
The 30 platen lets the ink bleed together a bit.