Best Way to Score 0.040" Aluminum for Bending (Using Colex or Other Tool)?

[bpp]

Hey all,

I have a small job where someone wants 100 picture stands made from .040" aluminum, bent into an easel shape to hold up prints. I’ll include a photo so you can see what I mean.

I’m thinking of scoring the aluminum along the bend line to make folding easier and cleaner. I have a Colex, so I could run it on there, but I’m not sure if that’s the best way to do it — or what type of bit to use for scoring aluminum (if that’s even the right approach).

Open to:

Bit/tool suggestions if doing this on the Colex

Alternative tools (not too expensive) if there’s an easier or better way to score for bending


Appreciate any advice — just trying to get clean bends without cracking or going all the way through. Thanks!

 

[Johnny Best]

They make a sawblade for a track saw which puts a 45 degree plunge cut groove so you can easily bend the material. the track saw can easily be adjusted for depth so as not to cut through.

 

[Z SIGNS]

You bend 040 with a brake not scoring

 

[LarryB]

We make these all the time and use a brake. Never use the router.

 

[MikePro]

if you score .040, you risk it tearing open on a bend.
big fan of using a Vbit on aluminum composite, however, so that i'm only bending the untouched .040 layer on one side and it leaves room for the material to crush into itself on the backside.

 

[JBurton]

Pick up a brake and bend them with no grooves. We have a tennsmith letter brake for stuff this small, for this many in particular it's nice because the clamping action is a foot pedal. That or a press brake, but I don't have one so I can't recommend anything in particular.
Here's my brake:

 

[JBurton]

Pick up a brake and bend them with no grooves.

To add to this, if it were me, I'd still find a way to pass the tool over the surface to mark where to bend, for uniformity and speed. Previously I would have run a v bit at a -.001 depth, but recently picked up a springloaded diamond drag engraver that I'm very fond of, plus it makes lines at nearly 0 width!
Aaaaand now I realize you're running a colex, so probably cutting after decoration, which eliminates the ability to mark the back side without doubling the effort. Rig a backstop?
Anyway, here's my diamond drag bit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQUQM1M?ref_=pe_123509780_1038749300_t_fed_asin_title

 

[MikePro]

i've had a drag tool for my CNC for nearly two decades and never used it. Came across it lumped in a box of extra collets & misc crappy bits a couple of months ago & figured i'd give it a shot for some stud targets on super tiny lettering and now i'm HOOKED.