Brackets for Double Sided Signs

[SqueeGee]

We're doing several double sided signs that will be mounted between 4"x4" wood posts that will be covered with PVC sleeves. We would typically use Sooper brackets for this but I'm looking for something less "intrusive". See the attached image of what the brackets will look like on our sign and notice how they will actually cover the border that's around the edge.

Does anyone have any other suggestions about how to mount these signs that will be less visible in the face of the sign?

BTW, I've already routed and painted the blanks so I can't incorporate any type of groove in the post for mounting because I would have needed to make the blank slightly wider to make this work.

 

[Monsterkidz]

How thick is the material? Any chance of bolting through the post into the side of the sign?

 

[PressPrintGraphics]

I know with PVC posts you can cut an opening down the side and make the board a bit wider than needed so it fits inside..

Maybe someone can chime in on elaborating a little more, maybe something of the same could be done with wood posts..

 

[SqueeGee]

How thick is the material? Any chance of bolting through the post into the side of the sign?

Sorry - I should have mentioned that. It's 3/4" Komacel. We're doing 10 signs and there two different sizes - 2'x3' and 3'x4'.

 

[BrianKE]

I think you are kind of stuck with what you if you have already cut the shape of the boards.

One alternative to the brackets pictured is to use quarter round trim material (like you would use around your base boards in your home, they make these out of plastic now which is very nice) and build a groove for the panel to sit in. While it won't totally alleviate your problem you could paint the quarter round to match your sign and then it wouldn't be nearly as intrusive. I have done this on a number of signs because I don't care for the brackets.

I typically glue and screw the quarter round to the post. I then drill over-sized holes in the sign and screw thru the quarter round on one side of the sign into the quarter round on the other side. The over-sized hole on the sign itself allows for expansion/contraction so the sign face doesn't crack over the seasons. Typically I go 3/16" bigger hole than what the screw requires. I also counter sink and putty over the head of the screw. Also use stainless as the screw will have some exposure to the elements.


HTH,

 

[N2Harpz]

We have used the "slot" method several times with the PVC. Only on smaller post and panel signs. ( 18x24 .. half inch alumacorr, not too big )

Leave the post hollow and slip the sign panel in the groove, level it up, and screw it in. I don't like to leave them hollow on a larger sign.

I think what you have going on will work fine, But I would paint and strip the brackets to blend in with the sign.

 

[Marlene]

I would use the brackets that are much like those but are open on both ends instead of being a cup. I'd paint them matte black and would mount them on the sides of the sign about 3 or 4 inches down from the shaped part, two per side. by doing that, the hardware becomes part of the overall look and not just something to hold the sign up

 

[CES020]

I haven't done this, but I've replaced many where people have done it, but they don't use brackets at all. They take 2 pieces of wood, paint it the same color as the sign, and then make a "track" down the inside of the post. They are screwed to the post. The sign goes in between the two and you nail or screw from one, through the sign, into the other.

They are normally about 3/4" or 1" wide, the length of the sign.

In this situation, it might accomplish what you want.

 

[Just Another Sign Guy]

you could run a footer underneath the sign for it to 'sit' on and then drill pilot holes through the sides and bottom and insert screws and then plug the holes.

or depending on how far away the sign will be viewed from you could paint the brackets to match the border..i wouldnt do it for a project that would be viewed from 4' away but if it was going to be viewed from passing cars i wouldnt hesitate.

 

[SqueeGee]

I've been thinking about it more. Do you think this will work (see attached)?. I would use .125 aluminum, attach it into the edges of the PVC with several screws (countersunk) and then attach the aluminum/sign to the post. My main concern would be the connection between the aluminum and the pvc. Will it be durable?

 

[WhiskeyDreamer]

i use pc of flat steel that's 'bout half a foot longer than the sign...mount to the sides of the sign (paint to match), then mount the flats to your posts....

 

[JR's]

good to go that will work.

 

[SqueeGee]

I would use the brackets that are much like those but are open on both ends instead of being a cup. I'd paint them matte black and would mount them on the sides of the sign about 3 or 4 inches down from the shaped part, two per side. by doing that, the hardware becomes part of the overall look and not just something to hold the sign up

Here's what it would look like using Marlene's suggestion. I hadn't considered making it "part of the overall look" and if you all think my other idea is not durable enough, this is probably what I would go with.

CES020-I've seen(and used) the same method you mentioned. For this sign, I only have 1/2" between the edge of the sign and the border so it would be tough to make work for this particular design.

 

[CES020]

This is what I was talking about above. Sorry, it's a little crud, but I hope you get the idea. The thin pieces are painted to match the sign and wouldn't go over into your groove if done right.

 

[SqueeGee]

This is what I was talking about above. Sorry, it's a little crud, but I hope you get the idea. The thin pieces are painted to match the sign and wouldn't go over into your groove if done right.

Not crud, very good rendering! That's exactly what I had pictured from your previous post.

 

[Brandon708]

you can paint or print the scooper brackets to match the sign including the boarder.

 

[J Hill Designs]

I've been thinking about it more. Do you think this will work (see attached)?. I would use .125 aluminum, attach it into the edges of the PVC with several screws (countersunk) and then attach the aluminum/sign to the post. My main concern would be the connection between the aluminum and the pvc. Will it be durable?

I use this method on thicker signs (sandblasted, ~1.25"+ thick) but would be worried about the screw holding in 1/2" material

 

[SqueeGee]

I use this method on thicker signs (sandblasted, ~1.25"+ thick) but would be worried about the screw holding in 1/2" material

You probably picked up the 1/2" measurement regarding the distance from the edge of the sign to the border. We're actually using 3/4" Komacel. Would you still be worried about the screws holding knowing now that it's 3/4"?

 

[Marlene]

yep, that's what I had in mind. I like to use exposed hardware like this as part of the overall look

 

[GB2]

I've been thinking about it more. Do you think this will work (see attached)?. I would use .125 aluminum, attach it into the edges of the PVC with several screws (countersunk) and then attach the aluminum/sign to the post. My main concern would be the connection between the aluminum and the pvc. Will it be durable?

That is a perfectly good method. The connection between the aluminum and the PVC is of no concern. The aluminum should be a minimum of .125 or maybe a little heavier. You do not need 6 screws to attach the aluminum to the post, only 2 are needed, one at the top and one at the bottom.