I'm using 20# blueprint paper which never had an issue on my Mimaki. What drives me nuts is till it starts printing and even canceling a job can be 20 minutes..
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Canon Colorado M Series.
- Thread starter Pauly
- Start date
These machines arent really designed for paper... Not saying it wont work, but blueprints are generally printed on a "Plotter" / Aqueous printer - Much faster, Theyre way cheaper... and more accurate. My resin has been pretty bang on accurate, but I dont know if it would be for stuff like blueprints. Even on our Latex we never had great success with paper, we could make it work... but like you there would always eventually be tunneling, especially on the non latex specific paper.
EPSON C12C937271 SC-R5070/LMEDIA SPACER - Look into one of these... I believe it was $200ish? It's supposed to be for heat sensitive medias, I havent used mine yet so I dont know if / how well it works... but I've heard a few people who use cheaper medias use it, and it helps a lot
EPSON C12C937271 SC-R5070/LMEDIA SPACER - Look into one of these... I believe it was $200ish? It's supposed to be for heat sensitive medias, I havent used mine yet so I dont know if / how well it works... but I've heard a few people who use cheaper medias use it, and it helps a lot
victor bogdanov
Active Member
I leave mine in and use it on all media, not sure what kind of difference it makes since I haven't printed without it
Hello, I don't know if you can help me with some questions. 1) What is the Durability of the Print without Laminating to the Exterior?
Hello, I don't know if you can help me with some questions. 1) What is the Durability of the Print without Laminating to the Exterior?
victor bogdanov
Active Member
Very durable, I printed a 60" x 50ft banner full ink coverage 3 years ago, attached to corrugated metal building and it still looks same as day one in Texas sun/weather.
Gracias por la información, con el tema de rotulación de vehículos, ¿es necesaria la laminación?
victor bogdanov
Active Member
I think vehicle wraps still need to be laminated if you want a quality wrap. If something temporary it would be fine without laminate
Sí, estoy de acuerdo con Laminación en vehículos.
En general, ¿qué tan estable es la Canon y los costos de cabezales, repuestos, mantenimiento no son muy altos?
victor bogdanov
Active Member
Parts, heads, etc cost on the Colorado is Very high. I would not buy this without a service contract. What country are you in, might be different in your country
Estamos en Guatemala CA. Hay un distribuidor local que nos esta ofreciendo el equipo, ya tenemos una de ese distribuidor, Mimaki UJV-100-160 y la verdad no hemos tenido ningún problema con ella desde hace 2 Años, pero estamos buscando algo más rápido, y entiendo que los Los costos en tinta son un poco más bajos que la Mimaki UV.
victor bogdanov
Active Member
Ink cost is good, it is a very good printer if you have the print volume for it
MarkSnelling
Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
UV ink costs are all over the board. On a conservative basis, I'd say you should expect to pay around $.08/ft2 for your ink usage. If you get into profiling, you can cut that cost by nearly 40%. The inks are good for about 3 years outdoors without lamination. The inks are incredibly scratch and chemical resistant. If you have a local distributor, make sure they are service trained and see if you can get some referrals. If they are good at troubleshooting then you should be able to rely on them for service needs beyond the 2 year warranty.
FireSprint.com
Trade Only Screen & Digital Sign Printing
We find the ink, filter and consumable costs are around $0.10 a squarefoot total. It's really a great printer and the ink is very durable.
Closest thing to screen printing that we have seen. Feel free to order some samples from us and you'll see what we do with it first hand:
Closest thing to screen printing that we have seen. Feel free to order some samples from us and you'll see what we do with it first hand:
Hello from UK,
Long story - short. We have a Colorado M3W which purchased last year with our main purpose being to print windows graphics in white ink mainly on gloss PET films. After vigorous testing of the white inks for robustness and adhesion on almost every film we use (PET, PVC, etc.), all were fine until few months ago when our fitters started noticing that the ink when applied started scratching with a hard squeegee and left a "milky" like residue after spraying a soaped water for application. To explain - if you print a light fade in white ink, the light-covered area (from 0 to 40-50% ink amounts) is very easy to scratch. Since I adjusted all profiles in Caldera to the maximum possible 36 deg. temperatures and raised the cure UV lights to maximum level 5 with no effect at all, the problem persists. We're experiencing issues with adhesion on glossy PET films.
Has anyone else encountered similar problems with white inks on their Colorado M3W?
Long story - short. We have a Colorado M3W which purchased last year with our main purpose being to print windows graphics in white ink mainly on gloss PET films. After vigorous testing of the white inks for robustness and adhesion on almost every film we use (PET, PVC, etc.), all were fine until few months ago when our fitters started noticing that the ink when applied started scratching with a hard squeegee and left a "milky" like residue after spraying a soaped water for application. To explain - if you print a light fade in white ink, the light-covered area (from 0 to 40-50% ink amounts) is very easy to scratch. Since I adjusted all profiles in Caldera to the maximum possible 36 deg. temperatures and raised the cure UV lights to maximum level 5 with no effect at all, the problem persists. We're experiencing issues with adhesion on glossy PET films.
Has anyone else encountered similar problems with white inks on their Colorado M3W?
Attachments
10sacer
New Member
Use a softer squeegee with a wet edge and don't use too much soap. It shouldn't take a ton of pressure to get the application fluid moving to the edge of the film
MarkSnelling
Mark Snelling - Hasco Graphics
sometimes less is more...by maximizing the temperatures and cure strength, you could be altering the finished cured product on the PET. What media are you using? Be specific and I'll see what I can find out. You are welcome to take this offline and email me directly.
When investing in a 5R or Durst, you’re expected to run tens of thousands of square feet—so I'd imagine ink pricing is negotiable for high-volume users like yourself. But here’s the real kicker: you could buy multiple Colorados for the price of one Durst or the other printers you mentioned.
Also, If Colorado is running at under $0.10 per sq. ft. according to signs101 users, while Latex/Resin/eco-solvent is over $0.20+, it’s a no-brainer if you have the volume. The real question is: how much ink do these other printers use compared to the Colorado? That’s the key to negotiating ink costs with a solid sq. ft. commitment. After all, I attended a tradeshow where Caon compared 5 wallpaper images side by side printed by five separate companies across our great nation, and you could not tell the difference in color or quality. I haven't seen that done before with any print technology. Do we really need a 10-foot printer if we mainly run 54"/64" wide material...
I would love to hear your thoughts on how you are handling ink pricing in your setup.