CJ-500 converted to eco solvent

[bovegas]

Hello everobody,
I have just finished conversion on my cj-500 to eco solvent ink. I did everything by myself including building controller box for heaters and heaters installation. I have used eleven ten inks since they offer free ink set. Also they claim it is the same like OEM ink. This forum helped me the most and if somebody needs any help i will be glad to do so. I also did repair on mother board and motor replacements and all calibrations on this printer. I have build take-up reel to that operates manually. Everything needed for conversion like new heads, dumpers, cap station, pump, ink, heaters parts and take up reel parts cost me about $800. Great deal comparing to $3500 I was quoted originally. Everything is running great.
Only problem I have is color profile. I have tried couple different but it seems color is a bit darker. I was wondering if someone have color profiles that could be used on this printer. I would print mostly on vinyl and banner materials. Also I have me temperature settings at 45C for pre heater and 48C for dryer. I dont know what seetings should work the best and how do you know what you should look in print to get the best temperature. Since there is no that much informations about CJ-500 converted to solvent, I would be glad to stay in contact with you guys who have same or similar printer.
Regards

 

[Border]

What did you end up using for the actual heater elements?

 

[Vinylman]

bovegas:

Congratulations!

I converted mine over also, using industrial heaters, with front and back heaters, on/off switch wired into internal wiring inside rear cabinet. looks better than factory, no external boxes or wiring hanging all over the place.

I have found my settings for heat to not need to be over 95f. Higher than that seems to soften the vinyl to much, and cause the 11-10 inks to dry to fast. causes "mottling".
If you lower the front heater slightly it gives the inks time to 'settle" or flow together some what. That makes for a smoother looking print, at least on my Roland.

 

[bovegas]

Vinylman

Wow that looks great. Makes me want to do the same. Great idea.
So you have settings for both heaters at 95 for vinyl.
How about profiles. What i should do about it?

 

[bovegas]

bovegas:

Congratulations!

I converted mine over also, using industrial heaters, with front and back heaters, on/off switch wired into internal wiring inside rear cabinet. looks better than factory, no external boxes or wiring hanging all over the place.

I have found my settings for heat to not need to be over 95f. Higher than that seems to soften the vinyl to much, and cause the 11-10 inks to dry to fast. causes "mottling".
If you lower the front heater slightly it gives the inks time to 'settle" or flow together some what. That makes for a smoother looking print, at least on my Roland.

You mean pre heater should be slightly lower than 95 or both heaters. Do you mean 94/95 is ok.

 

[bovegas]

vinylman

What mode do you use. Normal, Fine2, super or photo?

 

[bovegas]

profiles

Anyone has icc profiles for this printer converted?

 

[Vinylman]

Bo:

You remind me of my Grandson

So MANY questions, so FEW answers.

Anyway, setting your heaters is a very EXACT SCIENCE{yah Right}

just experiment for YOUR application. It will vary depending on the material you are printing on I believe. Banner stock will probably require more heat.

I like keeping my heaters set lower than some others because it gives the 11-10 inks time to "etch" in to the vinyl.
I usually keep the rear heater slightly less temp than the front so the vinyl doesn't stretch or bulge as it approaches the print head.

As far as printing "mode" that depends on what your end product is meant for. Close up viewing will probably require "photo, or super". viewed from farther away, you could go to other settings. you will have to use your best judgement on what YOU want to see when finished printing. keep in mind the better the print quality, the more ink you will consume.

 

[Vinylman]

Before doing this conversion, I had no prior eco solvent printer experience. And so when I heard people talking about heaters, i thought they where to raise the temperature of the substrate to some really high amount {150-175 degrees}.

Now that I have done the conversion, I realize that you only need to raise the temp of the material 10-20 degrees above ambiant room temp to get decent results.

Just shows to Go Yah, even an









Can learn a few new tricks!

 

[bovegas]

Icc Profiles

Are you happy with print colors. Are they the same what you got on your monitor or close. Do you use any profile or you using same profiles as for pigment ink.
Thank you

 

[sfr table hockey]

Good to hear we are not alone. I can't help you yet on profiles but I have my heat cables in my CJ 500. I used in floor heat cable and ran to both front and rear. I use a dimmer switch to set the temp and have a cooking probe in the rear pannel for a temp reading. Just for info sake from a start up temp of 62 F it takes 1:20 sec to heat to 72 F. To 82 F takes 3:00 then to 92 F takes 5:30 sec. and 102F takes 9:40 sec. and if left for 30 min it will reach 118 F. Now I have not used it to print as I am still waiting to do some test prints with the Aqueous inks and needed to order a couple. Once I get some test prints on canvas done I will have something to refer to and then when I change inks I will know the changes in colors and see if it's worth keeping one set of inks or the other.

 

[stinky12]

From what I've read in previous posts (because I'm converting my CJ500 as well) you can use the standard profiles for SC-500, which is essentially the same printer but rigged up for mild solvent.

Question... I'm getting ready to install the heaters and would like to know what materials you used for your set-up?

 

[sfr table hockey]

Question... I'm getting ready to install the heaters and would like to know what materials you used for your set-up?

Which set-up do you want info on? Do you have any materials for the heaters yet?

 

[joeutut]

I have a old HP 3500 CP. Does anyone know if this can be converted. Is it as simple as get some sort of heating elements attached before and after the material and regulating the temp?

 

[Robert M]

Sc 500

Be carful which profiles you use. When the SC 500 first came out the inks were completly different then the current Max inks. Profiles for SOL ink or Eco Sol inks will not work very well. It will need to say Max

 

[wes70]

I have a old HP 3500 CP. Does anyone know if this can be converted. Is it as simple as get some sort of heating elements attached before and after the material and regulating the temp?

No, the Hp has thermal heads, in which, solvent ink cannot be used.

 

[decibeldesign]

So, what did you successful converters use for heating elements/controllers?

 

[studio10]

On my Mutoh Rockhopper I I've tried different nonoem inks. Last ink use for over a year and have proved to be the best. I also have a problem with the profile for vinyl. Printed colors are too dark and I have the most trouble with gray. I've tried different profiles and none were suitable. I solved the problem by making adjustments in Photoshop and then print. Another solution for me is to pay for create profiles. As regards temperature for vinyl, I usually use 40C for both heaters. Mutoh Rockhopper I has DX2 printhead like your CJ-500. Where you buy it and at what price? A few weeks ago I tried the Epson dealers at a price of around $100, but they are no longer in stock.

 

[anozira02]

I also converted my Cj-500 about a year ago or so.. I installed the controllers right into the front panel of the unit. For the heater I used adhesive backed silicone rubber heaters with the K type thermocouple, I have the heat set for the rear at 110f. and 98f. for the front.

 

[Tone-Mark Creative]

Roland CJ-500--Any truth to this?

Greetings all,
While looking into the best way to convert my CJ-500 I happened upon a post where a gentleman from the UK stated he had heard that once converted to solvent inks the ability for the CJ-500 plotter to read registration marks disappeared. As I will be laminating and then cutting some of the work this was a huge minus, if true. I'll still do the conversion regardless.

Thanks,
Randy