• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Drilling through sheet metal into brick wall

gnubler

Active Member
Elementary install question, but what's the best way to drill holes through sheet metal and into brick? Use a regular drill to make a hole in the metal, then roto hammer into the masonry? Customer wants a sign to cover an old bank drawer that used to be in the building. You can see the black metal sheeting that's part of the window frame, which is what I would drill through into the brick to attach the sign. Behind the house wrap material is a metal plate but I won't be drilling into that, just the four corners of the sign (will use ACM). I'm open to any better mounting suggestions.

20230604_123549.jpg 20230604_1235492.jpg
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Regular drill and I'd use an SDS drill. Unless you're using a tapcon for everything, you'll probably ruin the acm trying to secure into the wall at some point. You'd be better off building a frame and attaching that to the wall and attach the sign to the frame.
 

James Burke

Being a grandpa is more fun than working
It's worth every penny, and then some, to buy a high-quality step drill for drilling into sheet metal.

Ask me how I know.

JB
 

gnubler

Active Member
Methinks I'm just going to contract this out. So much for an easy little job, it never is!
Customer suggested using construction adhesive to stick it on...I said no.
 

netsol

Active Member
possibly use "nutserts" (pop rivets with a threaded hole)
we use them all the time, one of the handiest blind fasteners

gnubler, if you do it my way, you can leave the car running during tne install, you will be done so fast
 

JBurton

Signtologist
Customer suggested using construction adhesive to stick it on...I said no.
Ha, I'd take him up on it if it's his idea! What's the worst that will happen?
That looks to be about 1/8" thick metal, yeah? You can get a rotary hammer to blow right through a piece of .040" aluminum without worrying about using a metal bit first, but here you'd probably want to shim the piece of metal out with some wood shims, drill the holes in the metal, then come back with the hammer drill. A step bit won't help much here, just the right size bit for the hole. But while we're talking step bits, go and buy a $50 Lenox one, it'll out last 50 of the cheap harbor freight ones... Also don't let anybody else use it!


might be the best $25 you ever spent
Why bother riveting a threaded insert for an additional fastener to go into when you could just rivet a rivet through the sign panel? You're talking a couple buck in rivnuts & bolts vs a few cents in stainless rivets.
 

netsol

Active Member
jburton,
i was assuming we want to make it easy to remove the sign.

absolutely right about the lennox bit.
NEVER buy a cutting tool (drill bit, saw blade, knife) from harbor freight or the chinese in general

high carbon steel is an urban legend with them...
 

MrDav3C

New Member
There's a lot to be said for vhb! As much as a decent vhb tape can feel like a fantastic bond, I would still want a few mechanical fixings on any external sign for my own peace of mind
 

gnubler

Active Member
Yay, more ideas! Thought this would be one and one. NOPE.
Gonna run it by my contractor and see what he suggests.

Regarding adhesion, I might've tried that if the mounting surface was flat, but those metal plates are bowing/flapping out where the bank drawer was, so I need the force of screws to hold it down, or else project it on a frame/stringers like Gino mentioned. It's only about 3ft off the ground.
 

MrDav3C

New Member
Could you make the sign slightly larger than the metal sheeting, fix into the brickwork around it as normal and add some vhb to the frame or any other points where it isn't flapping about?
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Dude. Put some sealant around the panel and tek screw it in. If they want it done right, call a mason. It's split faced block too, not brick.
 

ikarasu

Active Member
We do a lot of ACM signs like this in parkades - 75% of the time they don't want any fasteners... A few strips of vhb tape, and if it's not that nice if a surface a couple dabs of construction glue and the signs hold up for years.

Best way is fasteners though.

If all you have is a hamner drill and you're only doing a few screws... What you suggested is fine. An sds drill will make it easier and faster, but before sds drill everyone used hammer drills.... It's not the wrong tool for the job, just not the easiest.
 

visual800

Active Member
see attached, this is not a job for acm. In my opinion, do it right if your gonna do it.
 

Attachments

  • 20230604_123549.jpg
    20230604_123549.jpg
    61.6 KB · Views: 160

gnubler

Active Member
Resolved this the down & dirty way using a couple wood stringers, Gorilla tape, and glue. Screwed the sign to the stringers and done. It was part of a barter so I wanted to keep it simple...never works out that way, does it?

20230616_153632.jpg 20230618_142817.jpg
 

gnubler

Active Member
The only consumable I would barter for is beer, and they had none to offer. Alas, I had to settle for an upgrade to my website & email hosting, and everyone's happy.
 
Top