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FedEx graphics install

Manning

New Member
Does anyone know how I need to maneuver this corner? I don’t know if their material needs to be applied with heat or if I should tuck it or what ?
 

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Manning

New Member
I used heat. It stretched some so I’ll have to trim it a little.
 

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Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
I would peel off transfer tape and feed it into (through) the recess cold, then post heat.
Doing it that way would make the top of the letter short and distorted. You need more material, so to speak, to get those letters hitting even on the top.
You really need to bridge it, heat well below the recess and the push it in. This draws material from the flat area which is less likely to lift. At least that is my understanding of how to do it.
 

ikarasu

Active Member
Take some of the vinyl you cut away when you weeded the f and do an underlay roughly the shape of where the decal well land over the recess... Not past it, just over it.

Apply like normal, stretch it a little bit into the channel, cut it, then push it in with no stretching. You're hand cutting what... 2" on the sides to line up the edge of the F perfectly?

No stretching, there will be a slight "seam" in the channel, but it won't lift or bubble and it'll be far, far less noticeable than the 2 " bubble that's going to appear on this vehicle a week after it's in the sun.

For letters and stuff like this that's easy, that's the quickest most efficient way and it looks the nicest - ive seen so many sprinter vans where it's bubbling all around the windows... It looks like garbage.

The problem is people follow the specs... They apply a gallon of primer, post heat it, and consider it to be cool proof. Rarely do they see the vehicle weeks later to see all the lifting on it. The above way has a much better success rate and is one of two ways we've never seen a bubble.
The other as mentioned is to stretch before the area so the stretch is not on the recess. But that works for full color wraps or where there is no text, otherwise it'll look funny and distort it. There are ways around that... But it takes a lot longer to do and is a pain.
 

WhiskeyDreamer

Professional Snow Ninja
Take some of the vinyl you cut away when you weeded the f and do an underlay roughly the shape of where the decal well land over the recess... Not past it, just over it.

Apply like normal, stretch it a little bit into the channel, cut it, then push it in with no stretching. You're hand cutting what... 2" on the sides to line up the edge of the F perfectly?

No stretching, there will be a slight "seam" in the channel, but it won't lift or bubble and it'll be far, far less noticeable than the 2 " bubble that's going to appear on this vehicle a week after it's in the sun.

For letters and stuff like this that's easy, that's the quickest most efficient way and it looks the nicest - ive seen so many sprinter vans where it's bubbling all around the windows... It looks like garbage.

The problem is people follow the specs... They apply a gallon of primer, post heat it, and consider it to be cool proof. Rarely do they see the vehicle weeks later to see all the lifting on it. The above way has a much better success rate and is one of two ways we've never seen a bubble.
The other as mentioned is to stretch before the area so the stretch is not on the recess. But that works for full color wraps or where there is no text, otherwise it'll look funny and distort it. There are ways around that... But it takes a lot longer to do and is a pain.
normally, at least in my experience, projects like this, you are supplied the vinyl and just do the application. we've done multiple FedEx trucks and they always bring the vinyl to us.
 

fairstreet ink

New Member
Its probably too late but, I just passed a FedEx van earlier like the one you are working on. I noticed the installer lowered the logo just below that window line. It looked like he made logo to fit just inside those two fake window areas. This may help on your next install.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Its probably too late but, I just passed a FedEx van earlier like the one you are working on. I noticed the installer lowered the logo just below that window line. It looked like he made logo to fit just inside those two fake window areas. This may help on your next install.
Well, if you sidetrack the guidelines, you'll be out of a customer for sure.

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madone

New Member
Doing it that way would make the top of the letter short and distorted. You need more material, so to speak, to get those letters hitting even on the top.
You really need to bridge it, heat well below the recess and the push it in. This draws material from the flat area which is less likely to lift. At least that is my understanding of how to do it.
I’ve been doing this mobydick was a minnow, it’s the only way. If you follow my advice with the F and E they will come out the same height. Your understanding?, have ever installed vinyl on a recess like this??
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
I’ve been doing this mobydick was a minnow, it’s the only way. If you follow my advice with the F and E they will come out the same height. Your understanding?, have ever installed vinyl on a recess like this??
Nope never. I just stumbled upon something interesting to talk about while looking for porn.
All I can say is you're wrong. I don't feel like explaining it to you. There are many people that are as old as mobydick and don't know their ass from a hole in the ground.
 
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