Need Help Glass Door Decals (New to me)

[Goatshaver]

Customer asked for a couple of door decals (logo, phone number, etc.) However since I've never done this kind of work before and I want to do it as good as I can the first time. These will be exposed to the elements, at least one will be I know that.
What are some decent (relatively lower cost) vinyl and laminate combo I should use? Do I need to use a laminate if I'm not printing anything?
Also any transfer tape recommendations would be helpful!

I've considered using the calendared material I have but I know that's a no no to use for signage, but as far as cast material goes I don't know what to look into using. I may print some but as far as I can see this will all be strictly cut vinyl. Thanks!

 

[Solventinkjet]

You can absolutely use calendared vinyl for something like that. No laminate needed. Oracal 651, FDC 4200 series are two good calendared vinyl options that will hold up in the elements. Of course cast will last longer but overkill for something like this in my opinion. Our front door has had FDC 4200 series on it facing east in the Colorado sun and lasts many years before needing to be redone.

 

[Boudica]

if there is no ink - you don't need laminate. Calendared vinyl is great if it's a flat surface. We do window graphics with calendared gloss vinyl all the time. We always have 3M on deck, so I would use 3M IJ35c-10 - but again that's because it's what we have on hand. Cast vinyl is necessary if you are wrapping something like a vehicle with contours - but a flat glass door, not necessary.
If it's contour cut, you need transfer tape, we use R-tape.

 

[gnubler]

^What they said. I almost always use calendared vinyl for door & window graphics or lettering. Oracal 651 is my house stock and I also use a high tack R-tape (Fellers and Grimco carry it)

On vehicles I use cast vinyl, whether it's cut vinyl or printed.

 

[Goatshaver]

Still working on the design and details of this thing but I want to do it as correctly as possible the first time around.
Would it be wise to break these up into multiple pieces for ease of applying to the window? I was going to do the top text and logo together and then the bottom piece as a second transfer.

I'm just so paranoid of screwing things like this up. My customers are always in a hurry for stuff but I don't want rush through something new to me just to get it done.

 

[Modern Ink Signs]

I will disagree with the use of calandered vinyl. I only use cast for window lettering. The cost difference in a project like this is just a few dollars. Cast is a better product vs cal


But you do you.

 

[Stacey K]

I only use cast vinyl for windows. Up here in WI with snow, rain, heat in summer, the calendared will shrink and leave a tiny bit of adhesive around everything which then catches dirt and looks bad.

Cut the entire graphic as one. When you go to apply, you can tape 2-3 sections then cut apart and apply each section separately if you are more comfortable. I would tape/measure it all as one so you only have to measure once! If the entire process scares you, cut two graphics out and bring them both along in case you make an error, then you have a back-up. I recommend dry applying unless you are using Rapid Tac. If you are using Rapid Tec then I would just apply the entire decal as one, maybe horizontal hinge, do the bottom first, then the top. If you do the top first, the Rapid Tac will drip down and the paper backing will get wet and won't come off the vinyl. Then if that happens, you have to wet it and scrape it off - a real PITA LOL

 

[Johnny Best]

Cast on cut vinyl on glass, lays flatter and holds up a lot longer than calender.

 

[Gino]

Looking at some of the finer details, I'd use a decent cast. When vinyl has very little area to stick, it's always better to use cast, so those fine lines and dashes don't lift.

Also, what stacey said, but I'd go a step further and cut the welcome part off, too. Worry about getting the main part on and centered, then get the last two lines.

 

[Goatshaver]

Looking at some of the finer details, I'd use a decent cast. When vinyl has very little area to stick, it's always better to use cast, so those fine lines and dashes don't lift.

Also, what stacey said, but I'd go a step further and cut the welcome part off, too. Worry about getting the main part on and centered, then get the last two lines.

It will be outdoors from what I know so I'll have to order materials for this since I don't do these kinds of jobs. I'd rather use a wholesaler to order the cut vinyl from and then just apply the application tape myself rather than ordering all materials for one order.
I was going to go with Oracal 651 but sounds like 751 be the one to go with

 

[Gino]

651 should be fine. It's a 6 year vinyl for flat surfaces. White would be a good color to start an inventory of vinyls, instead of paying someone else to do what you can do, unless you're overwhelmed with work.

 

[Billct2]

I use cast for all outdoor permanent jobs. The final job will be in white vinyl, correct?

 

[bob]

Cast, of course. Don't skimp on pennies and do it properly. Also, cut the vinyl in one large piece and put it on the window with a center hinge. Hint, always use 2" 3M masking tape. Don't skimp here either. In the case of this piece, use two pieces overlapping side by side for your center hinge. Then with a good pair of scissors, cut under the 'welcome' from the right edge to the hinge, try not to cut into the hinge but the world won't end if you do. Then do the same thing on top of the phone #. Now apply each separate piece from the top down keeping the top of the mask on the 2nd and 3rd pieces just touching the bottom of the mask of the piece above. Remove the hinge and cut and apply the left side just like you did the right. This is the easy and self aligning method for installing tall and complicated pieces. If the layout permits it as it does in this case. If not then you're stuck doing one big piece.

 

[RickP]

Customer asked for a couple of door decals (logo, phone number, etc.) However since I've never done this kind of work before and I want to do it as good as I can the first time. These will be exposed to the elements, at least one will be I know that.
What are some decent (relatively lower cost) vinyl and laminate combo I should use? Do I need to use a laminate if I'm not printing anything?
Also any transfer tape recommendations would be helpful!

I've considered using the calendared material I have but I know that's a no no to use for signage, but as far as cast material goes I don't know what to look into using. I may print some but as far as I can see this will all be strictly cut vinyl. Thanks!

Use cast. We tried calendared on our windows just as a test and the vinyl starts to crack at the corners in 3-4 years. As stated in the other response, the cost difference is minimal.

 

[Goatshaver]

I use cast for all outdoor permanent jobs. The final job will be in white vinyl, correct?

Yes, some are going indoors and some outdoors, but I'm going to use the same vinyl for both.

 

[StacyR]

most important thing is to clean the glass really good. i use foaming window cleaner and my razor blade handle. if you don't nothing will stick ..... orcal 651

 

[Modern Ink Signs]

I only use cast vinyl for windows. Up here in WI with snow, rain, heat in summer, the calendared will shrink and leave a tiny bit of adhesive around everything which then catches dirt and looks bad.

Cut the entire graphic as one. When you go to apply, you can tape 2-3 sections then cut apart and apply each section separately if you are more comfortable. I would tape/measure it all as one so you only have to measure once! If the entire process scares you, cut two graphics out and bring them both along in case you make an error, then you have a back-up. I recommend dry applying unless you are using Rapid Tac. If you are using Rapid Tec then I would just apply the entire decal as one, maybe horizontal hinge, do the bottom first, then the top. If you do the top first, the Rapid Tac will drip down and the paper backing will get wet and won't come off the vinyl. Then if that happens, you have to wet it and scrape it off - a real PITA LOL

View attachment 168900

Fellow Wisconsin-ite. Where are you located? I’m in Waukesha.

 

[Stacey K]

Fellow Wisconsin-ite. Where are you located? I’m in Waukesha.

I'm in Kiel, it's about an hour North of you. The only thing I know about Waukesha is that Mitch McGrath lives there (late model driver) and I picked up some race panels and hoodies from his shop last Christmas LOL

Some great weather we have...rain in December!

 

[Goatshaver]

Well they wanted all the pieces cut individually, they are doing the application of these themselves or they have someone that is doing it for them.

These are all masked with a clear transfer tape, just wondering what is the best way to mail these without the transfer tape coming off the backing paper. (tried to deliver these yesterday in the snow, but they failed to let me know they'd be closed. wasted an hour of driving for nothing.)

 

[Gino]

Sandwich them between two pieces of 10mm Cor-X. Ship them flat. Those pieces are too small to roll up without problems later on.