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Discussion I've owned an HP R1000 since April 2019, ask me anything

rollnstns

New Member
We have been running an R1000 for a month. We have issues where the prints are coming out short on the length. started out 1/16" now HP has gotten it back to 1/32" on most rigid substrates. Control IJ40 is coming up a full 1/8" short on the length. I've had HP send two different techs out, and they can't figure it out. After 3.5 weeks we are hearing from them that the machine is printing within tolerance! Is anyone else experiencing this? How a wrong size print be acceptable? They have messed with heat settings feed calibrations on the service side, and it's still not working. I've had a file I printed sent to our supplier, they printed through Onyx and Caldera and were off 1/16" through both software. HP in Atlanta printed through Caldera and it was right on.
I wanted to report that HP has worked with me and have taken massive steps in getting this addressed. Thank you all for your input!
 
Hello everyone,

Feeling a bit chatty lately while working night shifts to keep up with a large job. Wife's running day ops which leaves me alone with my vices and equipment.

Anyway, as the title says we've had an R1000 in our shop since the first few months of US availability. We upgraded from a Scitex FB550 which we owned for a year before the R series was announced and we decided to sell the 550 and upgrade.

Being owner to new tech meant there hasn't been much I could find online when troubleshooting or researching in this last year. Even videos of the machine operating (outside of EU owners) were sparse. There is the HP knowledge center but it's still lacking for the R series.

So I'm here to answer any questions you might have. Maybe this can serve as a future resource for other R1000 and R2000 owners.
We have 2 HP latex 365, now we are in the market for Flatbed printer. Looking into HP R 1000, Mimaki fjx200 and Vanguard r5,
Price is not a factor, will HP R1000 would be a good fit for entry level?
 

rx7boy

New Member
Hello I am in the market for an R1000 plus we have an aging hp 360 now and a Fuji Acuity (Oce Arizona 350gt). I have read through this thread and some great information here. One question I have is can you make the r1000 print only unidirectional to have the utmost best quality and drop placement when printing to acrylic?
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Hello I am in the market for an R1000 plus we have an aging hp 360 now and a Fuji Acuity (Oce Arizona 350gt). I have read through this thread and some great information here. One question I have is can you make the r1000 print only unidirectional to have the utmost best quality and drop placement when printing to acrylic?
No.
I think at some point they could be adding 8p-UniDir printmode but only for CMYK. You can't use it for any other printmode or with white.
 
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rx7boy

New Member
Hello another question about static. How does the r1000 combat static is there an anti static bar? Our Fuji has one and it definitely helps. Or does the latex ink work better that it doesn’t need anti static?
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Hello another question about static. How does the r1000 combat static is there an anti static bar? Our Fuji has one and it definitely helps. Or does the latex ink work better that it doesn’t need anti static?
There's no anti static system. I haven't heard any issues with static so I don't think it's an problem.
 
Hello everyone,

Feeling a bit chatty lately while working night shifts to keep up with a large job. Wife's running day ops which leaves me alone with my vices and equipment.

Anyway, as the title says we've had an R1000 in our shop since the first few months of US availability. We upgraded from a Scitex FB550 which we owned for a year before the R series was announced and we decided to sell the 550 and upgrade.

Being owner to new tech meant there hasn't been much I could find online when troubleshooting or researching in this last year. Even videos of the machine operating (outside of EU owners) were sparse. There is the HP knowledge center but it's still lacking for the R series.

So I'm here to answer any questions you might have. Maybe this can serve as a future resource for other R1000 and R2000 owners.
Are you able to print styrene on HP R1000 or R1000 plus, I heard it’s difficult to process because of curing heat which deform styrene.
Would appreciate your advice
Thanks
 

notorious d.a.d

New Member
Are you able to print styrene on HP R1000 or R1000 plus, I heard it’s difficult to process because of curing heat which deform styrene.
Would appreciate your advice
Thanks
Hello,

I'm printing on the R2000. After many tests on styrene, especially .02, we ended up with
curing temp: 160
drying temp: 125
printing airflow pressure: 50
curing airflow pressure: 425

Hope that helps.
 

Lunar Graphix

Button Pusher
Are you able to print styrene on HP R1000 or R1000 plus, I heard it’s difficult to process because of curing heat which deform styrene.
Would appreciate your advice
Thanks
printing styrene is awful but we do run 20, 30 and 40 mil quite often. I find it easier if I die cut my sheets down to near final size first and print small sheets versus full 4x8' sheets.
40 mil prints the best, way less likely to warp and headstrike than 20 mil is. If you print nothing but styrene I suggest getting a UV printer.
 

rx7boy

New Member
Hey everyone on here. We finally bit the bullet and got an R1000. 2 things I am running into and wonder if anyone has any insight.

We run a lot of 2 sided coasterboard .045 and we are having a heck of a time getting registration to line up. On our Arizona it’s never an issue. It seems the image near the alignment bar is bang on but at the end of the sheet it is out about 4-5 mm. We are running 40x60 sheets that are cut extremely accurately square. We have looked at our alignment bar to see if it’s not straight and it may be a bit by about 0.5mm and I know this could translate to being out more at the end of the sheet. Also thinking that heat was playing an issue into warping the sheet maybe we disabled the curing and drying heaters completely to see if that was an issue and it does not seem to be. Wondering if any of you guys have been struggling with registration? If you did how did you get better or almost perfect registration?

Next thing is when running Coroplast 2sided we are getting those little white marks on the side 1 of the sheet after we run side 2. I know there is a bit of a work around putting a holey sheet underneath but wondered if anyone else has found a better trick than this?

Thank you
John
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Hey everyone on here. We finally bit the bullet and got an R1000. 2 things I am running into and wonder if anyone has any insight.

We run a lot of 2 sided coasterboard .045 and we are having a heck of a time getting registration to line up. On our Arizona it’s never an issue. It seems the image near the alignment bar is bang on but at the end of the sheet it is out about 4-5 mm. We are running 40x60 sheets that are cut extremely accurately square. We have looked at our alignment bar to see if it’s not straight and it may be a bit by about 0.5mm and I know this could translate to being out more at the end of the sheet. Also thinking that heat was playing an issue into warping the sheet maybe we disabled the curing and drying heaters completely to see if that was an issue and it does not seem to be. Wondering if any of you guys have been struggling with registration? If you did how did you get better or almost perfect registration?

Next thing is when running Coroplast 2sided we are getting those little white marks on the side 1 of the sheet after we run side 2. I know there is a bit of a work around putting a holey sheet underneath but wondered if anyone else has found a better trick than this?

Thank you
John
1. There's multiple calibrations to combat this. Seems like something is just out of whack. Assuming you have a perfect board, the registration error should be less than 2mm.
Call up your support to fix it.

Use auto measurement. Other than that, you should always align the A-side to the left and also align the image to the left top corner. Then B-side to the right side and again image to the right top.

2. Lower your heat and vacuum as low as possible. Especially on the curing. All the hot air that it pulls under the belt will make that worse.
 

mbasch

New Member
We have had our R1000 for about a year. We print a ton of .030 styrene, but have issues with it staying flat and have to still print it on our Acuity UV. Does anyone print on .030? Any chance you'd be willing to share your settings for styrene?
 

rx7boy

New Member
1. There's multiple calibrations to combat this. Seems like something is just out of whack. Assuming you have a perfect board, the registration error should be less than 2mm.
Call up your support to fix it.

Use auto measurement. Other than that, you should always align the A-side to the left and also align the image to the left top corner. Then B-side to the right side and again image to the right top.

2. Lower your heat and vacuum as low as possible. Especially on the curing. All the hot air that it pulls under the belt will make that worse.
Much appreciated, I will reach out to support for the registration issue and thanks for the tips for the coroplast
 

Lunar Graphix

Button Pusher
Hey everyone on here. We finally bit the bullet and got an R1000. 2 things I am running into and wonder if anyone has any insight.

We run a lot of 2 sided coasterboard .045 and we are having a heck of a time getting registration to line up. On our Arizona it’s never an issue. It seems the image near the alignment bar is bang on but at the end of the sheet it is out about 4-5 mm. We are running 40x60 sheets that are cut extremely accurately square. We have looked at our alignment bar to see if it’s not straight and it may be a bit by about 0.5mm and I know this could translate to being out more at the end of the sheet. Also thinking that heat was playing an issue into warping the sheet maybe we disabled the curing and drying heaters completely to see if that was an issue and it does not seem to be. Wondering if any of you guys have been struggling with registration? If you did how did you get better or almost perfect registration?

Next thing is when running Coroplast 2sided we are getting those little white marks on the side 1 of the sheet after we run side 2. I know there is a bit of a work around putting a holey sheet underneath but wondered if anyone else has found a better trick than this?

Thank you
John

I made these sleds from three layers of 60 point chip board. I drilled holes on each slot so the vacuum can hold down the pulp coasterboard. Set up my file on illustrator with thru cut lines, cut it out on the summa then use the same files for printing as sheets. Works perfect for alignment. Print 15,000-20,000 at a time and don't lose a single one.

As far as actually fixing your alignment, I saw balstestrat answer this and I agree with them. Before you run the calibrations I suggest cleaning the encoder strip with a clean microfiber and distilled water.
 

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rx7boy

New Member
Thanks RJH, so with your template or skid you are placing coasters in there individually I am assuming that are already precut? We are printing the full 40x60 sheets then cutting them on our summa.

John
 
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