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JV3 Cap Leaking
- Thread starter decalit
- Start date
heyskull
New Member
More likely to be a cracked manifold or seal between head and manifold.
Also could be a leaky seal on a damper or damper itself.
It would seem a bit drastic to replace a complete line and in my opinion it is very rare for lines to leak, and if they do you will see the leak.
Start with the easy stuff!
SC
Also could be a leaky seal on a damper or damper itself.
It would seem a bit drastic to replace a complete line and in my opinion it is very rare for lines to leak, and if they do you will see the leak.
Start with the easy stuff!
SC
MikePro
New Member
no way is this issue above the head. the OP most likely notices this during the nozzle wash, with the carriage moved to the side, and when instructed to fill the capping station with fluid he watches 3/4 caps hold fluid and the one in question just simply drains-out.
the ink pump is the issue. it operates on a gear that opens/closes the line as it turns & this creates the suction that draws the ink due to the rolling-motion of the gear/pin on the line.
during a nozzle wash, the pump is instructed to only complete half a turn, thus closing the line and not allowing cleaning solution to drain from the cap.
MikePro
New Member
this has happened to me multiple times in the past, the line rots/cracks within the pump. machine can continue printing normally due to the siphon-effect of the ink, but the pump isn't actually doing anything but making noise and the waste-line is merely a cracked slide that allows for most of the ink to just drip-down into the waste container. The rest may be all-over your ink pump, and the "trap" beneath the pump.
i'm not 100% certain on your fix, without replacing the pump, there's some "fiddling" you can do to try to resolve the issue.
I have also resolved this in the past by simply depressing the capping station head repeatedly while flushing the lines with solution.
(i don't know exactly the reason why this fixed it but it did long enough for me to run a nozzle wash. hah.)
another option, for a temporary fix, would be to get a surgical clamp and just pinch/clamp the line right below the capping station to allow you to run a nozzle wash. obv. making sure to remove it before the nozzle wash cycle is over.
however, back to the potential of a broken pump/waste line:
If you can access the pump, you could try removing it from the gear and rotating a couple of degrees and re-installing. Step&repeat until the issue is resolved.
noted: you do not need to power-down the machine to do this. Opening the back-door of the printer to observe the ink pump in action is no big deal.
Use this time to possibly observe the pump as it operates, looking for any leaks/cracks/splits in the line near/within the pump mechanism. If it is cracked, you have to replace the whole pump... even if you could remove the old line from it, re-insertion of the new line is such a PITA that you may as well just get a whole new <$100 setup.
i'm not 100% certain on your fix, without replacing the pump, there's some "fiddling" you can do to try to resolve the issue.
I have also resolved this in the past by simply depressing the capping station head repeatedly while flushing the lines with solution.
(i don't know exactly the reason why this fixed it but it did long enough for me to run a nozzle wash. hah.)
another option, for a temporary fix, would be to get a surgical clamp and just pinch/clamp the line right below the capping station to allow you to run a nozzle wash. obv. making sure to remove it before the nozzle wash cycle is over.
however, back to the potential of a broken pump/waste line:
If you can access the pump, you could try removing it from the gear and rotating a couple of degrees and re-installing. Step&repeat until the issue is resolved.
noted: you do not need to power-down the machine to do this. Opening the back-door of the printer to observe the ink pump in action is no big deal.
Use this time to possibly observe the pump as it operates, looking for any leaks/cracks/splits in the line near/within the pump mechanism. If it is cracked, you have to replace the whole pump... even if you could remove the old line from it, re-insertion of the new line is such a PITA that you may as well just get a whole new <$100 setup.