iSign
New Member
well, I honestly never saw this done before, but when I bid the job, I thought i would just paint over vinyl mask... but as I got closer to time to do the work, all the 1" copy for 20 directional signs made my eyes go numb just thinking about cutting, weeding, applying AND removing all that copy... if there was a better way...
...well, it's going to cost me $50 each, but save me a lot of headache & I think it's a great solution!!
The required background color is a faux copper patina, or a mottled texture of various shades of turquoise green and copper... trending towards the darker ranges of this effect, for contrast purposes... and "sophisticated finishes" (or Triangle coatings) makes just the 2 part water base paint to do the job.
I've done several smaller samples, and now I've done a full size panel & installed it in the back lit environment to ensure day & night contrast and legibility. It's a hit! Client loves it, the result is vastly superior to the existing signage, and I consider it to be a success that nearly meets my own expectations!
I say "nearly" because I plan to improve on the original with at least one change, and possibly some other variations of production, based on questions I wish to ask here...
First, have a look at the results:
Here is another with my sign installed in the clients 4-sided housing. Mine is on the left & an illegible old sign is shown to the right of mine:
NOW, THE QUESTION:
HOW SHOULD I PREP THE ACRYLIC FOR LONG TERM PAINT ADHESION?
MY COPPER BASE COAT IS A WATER BASE PAINT, BUT FOR GREATER DURABILITY THIS SAMPLE ALSO HAS A DURABLE FOREST GREEN HOUSE PAINT, SIMILAR TO PORTER PAINT, UNDER THE COPPER.
One change I've already planned to implement is spraying instead of rolling the 2 base coats. The opacity was good on the sample, even though there was a small amount of translucency. The client didn't mind because the textural quality of the background even shows up at night... but I could see some linear roller marks resulting from varying degrees of paint thickness, in a noticably inorganic pattern. (The final patina effect is done with a sea sponge, which of course helped hide the roller lines)
So, is a light scuff sanding of the acrylic, followed by a good rinse & tack cloth sufficient for good paint adhesion? These signs are costing me a lot to produce, and of course costing the client quite a bit more, so I want to make sure they have every chance of lasting a good long time.
Any suggestions?
...well, it's going to cost me $50 each, but save me a lot of headache & I think it's a great solution!!
The required background color is a faux copper patina, or a mottled texture of various shades of turquoise green and copper... trending towards the darker ranges of this effect, for contrast purposes... and "sophisticated finishes" (or Triangle coatings) makes just the 2 part water base paint to do the job.
I've done several smaller samples, and now I've done a full size panel & installed it in the back lit environment to ensure day & night contrast and legibility. It's a hit! Client loves it, the result is vastly superior to the existing signage, and I consider it to be a success that nearly meets my own expectations!
I say "nearly" because I plan to improve on the original with at least one change, and possibly some other variations of production, based on questions I wish to ask here...
First, have a look at the results:
Here is another with my sign installed in the clients 4-sided housing. Mine is on the left & an illegible old sign is shown to the right of mine:
NOW, THE QUESTION:
HOW SHOULD I PREP THE ACRYLIC FOR LONG TERM PAINT ADHESION?
MY COPPER BASE COAT IS A WATER BASE PAINT, BUT FOR GREATER DURABILITY THIS SAMPLE ALSO HAS A DURABLE FOREST GREEN HOUSE PAINT, SIMILAR TO PORTER PAINT, UNDER THE COPPER.
One change I've already planned to implement is spraying instead of rolling the 2 base coats. The opacity was good on the sample, even though there was a small amount of translucency. The client didn't mind because the textural quality of the background even shows up at night... but I could see some linear roller marks resulting from varying degrees of paint thickness, in a noticably inorganic pattern. (The final patina effect is done with a sea sponge, which of course helped hide the roller lines)
So, is a light scuff sanding of the acrylic, followed by a good rinse & tack cloth sufficient for good paint adhesion? These signs are costing me a lot to produce, and of course costing the client quite a bit more, so I want to make sure they have every chance of lasting a good long time.
Any suggestions?
