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Mimaki Cutter SUCKS!

TheSnowman

TheSnowman

New Member
Ok, don't know if you can tell in this picture that well...but what I'm dealing with is that anytime I have to cut anything longer than like 3ft. my stupid cutter won't cut along the line. This was an 8'ft long run. I haven't EVER been able to do an 8ft cut that well in the 2 years I've had the machine, but it's just getting stupid now. Anyone have ANY ideas on this. I just don't see how it can skew, ESPECIALLY when it's compensating by finding the crop marks. Sometimes I can get away w/ a bleed, but couldn't do that on this project. Even then, it'd have to be a 10 - 15 pt. bleed sometimes.
 

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speedmedia

New Member
AMEN BROTHER!!!! I am not at all impressed with this POS Mimaki Cutter. I have a CG and have been able to cut some longer files but only with large bleeds sometimes as much as 60 points! It is no more than a overpriced paperweight.

On top of this anytime I need a part or I need service on it suddenly my vendor I purchased it from can "never" figure out the problems.

Needless to say I will never buy from them nor will I ever buy a Mimaki cutter again.

Thanks,
Kurt Dietrich
Speed Media
 
thewood

thewood

New Member
We have a 160 FX that works great including contour cuts. Before this one, we had another Mimaki for 12 years or so. It still runs great.
 
TheSnowman

TheSnowman

New Member
This is a 130FX I believe...if that's what it is. Something FX sounds right. I've never had 100% success w/ it, but several other mimaki owners say they have no trouble at all.
 
gabagoo

gabagoo

New Member
Man if I had that type of problem I would never use it to cut large graphics and do them by hand. good luck, I know how frustrating it can be dealing with these issues.
 
eforer

eforer

New Member
I've never had a problem on even much larger runs. Try using larger registration marks, and slowing the detection and cut down a hair.
 
C

Case

New Member
kraigsnowden said:
This is a 130FX I believe...if that's what it is. Something FX sounds right. I've never had 100% success w/ it, but several other mimaki owners say they have no trouble at all.
Click to expand...

Are you doing your contour cutting out of Onyx or the Finecut plugin for your Mimaki? If you are having registration issues with Onyx, then I would try the plugin Finecut(which works out of Illustrator or Corel) for your Mimaki plotter. Mimaki plotters and Cut Server tend to have issues...


Case
 
TheSnowman

TheSnowman

New Member
Case said:
Are you doing your contour cutting out of Onyx or the Finecut plugin for your Mimaki? If you are having registration issues with Onyx, then I would try the plugin Finecut(which works out of Illustrator or Corel) for your Mimaki plotter. Mimaki plotters and Cut Server tend to have issues...


Case
Click to expand...

I really hadn't thought about trying it w/ FineCut. Actually, I'm really not even sure how to go about doing that. How do you tell it find the registration marks? Do you just set the plotter like you normally do for CutServer?
 
C

Case

New Member
kraigsnowden said:
I really hadn't thought about trying it w/ FineCut. Actually, I'm really not even sure how to go about doing that. How do you tell it find the registration marks? Do you just set the plotter like you normally do for CutServer?
Click to expand...

Shoot me your email and I have a document for full directions on setup and usage for Finecut. It's easy to do...

Case
 
cptcorn

cptcorn

adad
I would have to agree that Anything beyond 8-10' it becomes extremely less accurate. When the plotter detects the registration marks does it adjust where it cuts after the detection process?

I cut everything except prints from onyx using finecut, but i cant seem to find out where you'd enter the code, or load the xml file.
 
eforer

eforer

New Member
Use fine cut and use 10mm marks. When the marks are smaller, the detection tends to suck. Also, set the mark detect speed slower. If the blade point isn't bullseyed over the origin registration mark after the detect, your marks are too small for the size of the job, or your detect speeds are too high and you'll have problems. We just did some 15 foot long pieces no problem.

Most of the complaints seem to be from those using flexi or onyx for their contour cutting. Try fine cut.
 
thesignexpert

thesignexpert

New Member
eforer said:
Use fine cut and use 10mm marks. When the marks are smaller, the detection tends to suck. Also, set the mark detect speed slower. If the blade point isn't bullseyed over the origin registration mark after the detect, your marks are too small for the size of the job, or your detect speeds are too high and you'll have problems. We just did some 15 foot long pieces no problem.

Most of the complaints seem to be from those using flexi or onyx for their contour cutting. Try fine cut.
Click to expand...

Also, call your tech support (I bought mine from Grimco and they are great). My technician walked me thru a couple of tweaks to the on board settings...
1. Slowing the head speed down
2. There is an option on the pinch wheels to increase the grip pressure (little levers on the back)
3. change electronic eye to look for only 1 (lower right) registration mark
4. Use FineCut software settings to locate the four registration marks when sending the plot data

Long story short, our Mimaki has no trouble at all now and regularly runs 15'-20' projects with excellent precision.

Hope that helps.

Tim Evans

The Sign Expert .com
"Practical Help for Sign Professionals"

Pro Sign and Graphics
"A Pro Sign made Easy"
 
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