Need Help - Printed Vinyl on Wallpaper

Eric Lott

New Member
I was just recently contracted to create a Fathead type of design for a wall for a local bank. I don't print, so I subbed it out to a friend.

The first time, he printed it on a removable vinyl (not sure the brand) and the edges curled. I had him re-print it on a more adhesive vinyl and not it's curling too. I don't recall the brand, but I remember it was a 5mm vinyl.

Part of the problem is the walls have a lightly textured wallpaper. The textures aren't raised, but it does have a grainy feel to it.

I'm attaching pictures. Can anyone think of a product that will adhere to this type of wallpaper without curling? Is there a glue or adhesive someone can think of that will hold the edges down? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want this job to be perfect because I think there is huge potential for repeat business.

Thanks in advance!



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New Member
I'd test some materials without printing.
I'd test ones that already failed with prints on them if I had used decent materials in the first place. This would be to rule out the possibility of solvents in the ink still curing & contracting & forcing the edges to curl. Your printer should wait a minimum of 24 hours before cutting full bleed graphics... and when curling issues are already present... I'd want him to wait 72 hours before cutting...

...but the other concern is removing the graphics without damage to the wall. Removable media seems like a good idea, but if it's not sticking, what is their opinion about a "permanent" adhesive?

3M makes an inkjet media for walls with texture. I'd also try 2 mil cast media.
Again, find a media that sticks without printing the whole job first. Then print a smaller sample, make sure your printer lets it cure before cutting... and test that...

Eric Lott

New Member

I did test several materials on the wall first, but they weren't printed. It never crossed my mind that the curing process might cause the edges to contract.

I started looking for the products you recommended. Is there a manufacturer you recommend for the 2mil cast media?

Thanks again. I really appreciate it. If anyone else has any tips or experience with this problem, let me know.


New Member
If anyone else has any tips or experience with this problem, let me know.

I don't know how big the prints are, or what printer your guy uses... but if i was up against this, I'd try the 24" roll of Arlon I have in stock for cut vinyl jobs. I'd want to make sure I had a good profile to print on it first, but then I'd see if it sticks.

I made the mistake of using some 3651 on a textured wall, because the client said it wasn't textured, so I stuck a sample on my own wall & it worked great. Then I printed the whole job, bought 3 plane tickets & flew me and my employees to another island, rented a car & spent an entire day installing it on a textured wall.

I was back there a week later redoing the job with 3M 220 cast vinyl because it was peeling off. The 3M worked great! It might have been a more costly product than I needed, but I couldn't easily test it due to the job being on a different island, and I had it on hand already since it was narrow strips I could use 15" material for.


New Member
3M makes an inkjet media for walls with texture. I'd also try 2 mil cast media.
Again, find a media that sticks without printing the whole job first. Then print a smaller sample, make sure your printer lets it cure before cutting... and test that...
I have used this product and gives a nice painted on look, allowing the texture to come right through, a heated 3M sponge roller works best for application (I do not think it is removable from wallpaper). Once you use this stuff, you will like it :smile:
Your going to have to put a 1/2" to 1" nonprinted border around the graphic that way the sides won't curl up. Or use a non removable film.


New Member
The 2611 is a new 6mil matte vinyl similar to GMI Wall Vinyl. Accoding to Avery it can be printed and cut with full bleed graphics without edge curling. But I've tested it here in my office and ,on our textured walls there was a very small amount of edge curling. It did better on my door, which is flatter.
I would advise that, if you use the 2611, tell your subcontractor to allow it to out-gas before cutting, as iSign suggested.
The best approach though for textured walls, is the 3M IJ8624 2mil cast vinyl. Apply with a 3M TSA (textured surface applicator) and heat for optimal adhesion. Be advised though, this vinyl is designed for block, brick and such; not wall paper, so it may not remove as cleanly as you wish. 3M recommends you apply it with 8518 luster cast overlaminate. This helps in fast removability on extremely textured surfaces.

Bill Modzel

New Member
I think the actual wallpaper is the problem here. I applied an Edge printed and cut logo for a coffee shop in our local airport. My first attempt was on Oracal 631 removable. I literally couldn't remove the premask without lifting the vinyl. This was after cleaning with Rapid Prep and tac.

I reprinted the job on Gerber's PermaGrip for low energy plastics. Even using that aggressive adhesive I had to hold down each chunk of vinyl with my finger as I babied
the premask off with the other hand. I think it stayed put as I've never heard back from them but I'd think twice before doing another job like that.

I also have commercial vinyl wallpaper in my own shop bathroom and have not been able to get any product to stay applied to that including phototex. They all will curl printed or unprinted.

My guess, and it is only a guess, is that some commercial vinyl wallpapers are treated with something to make cleaning easy.


New Member
we use the avery stuff too. We did a test on it and applied to a wall to see if it would work then forgot about it. Actually ran across it the other day a few months later and its still there uncurled.


New Member
We just had this happen. Our wall vinyl was on an outside mural in a shopping center. We did two "back to back" projects, and one stuck perfectly, and one peeled like crazy. We asked the shopping center to prime the "do-over" with a gloss finish, latex. This time it worked. I think the reason it stuck on the first project is that we had nice overlapping seems. But the second one stuck (I believe) due to the glossy finish. I am going to glue down the edges with super-glue (we did this for some previous clients and it worked!) And going forward, we're only going to apply our over-laminated cal. vinyl to prepped glossy finishes. (with 2" seems.). You simply don't know what's going to work! But we're also considering using only cast 3M vinyl and over-lam for future wood/glass finishes. It sucks to have to "re-do" stuff! good luck!

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