"No show bolt" install of aluminum panel

[Andy D]

I am putting together a couple of single sided "Vinyl Grover " frames with .080 aluminum panels cut to shape.
I would rather not drill through the panel and leave the install bolts showing, so I'm thinking of
adhering nuts with a base to the back side of the aluminum panel. A couple of questions:
Will stainless steel nuts react to painted aluminum?
I would rather buy the adhesive/bond local, what would you recommend?

 

[Billct2]

Why not VHB & adhesive the panels directly to the crossbars? You'd have a lot more surface.

 

[Gino]

Corrosion risks with aluminium and stainless steel in contact. ... Stainless steel fasteners in aluminium plates or sheets are normally considered safe, where as aluminium rivets or bolts holding stainless steel parts together is an unwise combination, as there is a practical risk of corrosion.

 

[Andy D]

That's a great idea, the only downside is the panels wouldn't be removable..
but it would make my day easier, I tend to make projects harder than they need to be.
I have the VHB tape, and my go-to outside adhesive is 100% silicon, what would you use?

 

[Texas_Signmaker]

I've seen threaded hex studs screwed into a channel that runs up the middle of the posts. You screw the stud in the channel on the bottom and the sign slips into the channel and rests on top of the studs... then you screw two more in at the top and it's held in place.

 

[Andy D]

What if I adhere aluminum angle on the back of the panel and then bolt through the top into the crossbar...
that way it's removable...?

 

[Billct2]

I like that idea. I would probably bend some .063 or 080 to make a custom sized bracket that is the same width as the crossbar

 

[Andy D]

I like that idea. I would probably bend some .063 or 080 to make a custom sized bracket that is the same width as the crossbar

So Bill, what's your go-to adhesive?

 

[Billct2]

As per Mozes suggestion, Lexel combined with VHB, but I know there are exceptions.

 

[d fleming]

90 and some adhesive to back. I have done exactly that with Lords adhesive with beads in it for a uniform grab. Stuff was dang near hurricane proof.

 

[signbrad]

The angle on the back is a good idea. I would use actual aluminum angle for strength rather than break metal. Lord has an adhesive for dissimilar metals.

There is a galvanic reaction when stainless touches aluminum in the presence of moisture, just as Gino indicated. Use a nylon washer under a nut to separate the metals if need be. That is the solution when equipment is hung from ceilings in indoor pool areas. Where the stainless is glued to the aluminum, of course, the adhesive should act as an insulator, I would think.

I have installed ACM panels using stainless bolts and the stainless ate right through the paint and aluminum. Of course, the aluminum on these panels is paper thin.

Brad

 

[bannertime]

It's literally twice as thick as paper. With "eco" panels having .12mm aluminum sheets. I think there is a panel that is .08mm from Laminators Inc which is just barely thicker than paper. Some of the "premium" panels are around .30mm and others are .20mm.

 

[Andy D]

Great advice/info about the Lexel, it sounds great.
How is it for clean up?

 

[Billct2]

Like silicone