Peeling stucco on an aluminum monument

[Josh Kuper]

i'm quoting refurbishing an old aluminum monument. I'm giving him an option for new routed faces but I didn't know if the side panels can be fixed on site. I haven't ever messed around with stucco finish before

 

[Andy D]

It's funny, I just went through something very similar.
I had to apply stucco to an ACM panel that had to match an existing sign & I know I can save you a lot of time, frustration & money.
My Sherwin Williams rep told me to use their "Extreme Bond Primer" primer, apply Quikrete stucco and paint it, that was a huge nope!
I'm sure it was something I did, I had to thin it out to get it to the right texture, but the next day the Quikrete was dry, crumbly & came right off.
So I scrubbed it down to the primer, went and got sand that is made to add to paint (put in more than suggested, a bag into 1/2 gallon), applied the paint pretty thickly and used a rubber float and "stamped" the whole sheet. It turned out great.
I really recommend that extreme bond primer, I scrubbed the hell out of that panel to get that grit off & it didn't scratch at all.

 

[studio 440]

i agree with Andy thats textured paint not stucco , make sure you use a good bonding primer

 

[Notarealsignguy]

If that's all you need, just use sand. Don't waste your money on the other stuff. It's the same thing.

 

[Andy D]

That tiny bag of grit was $8, does anyone use something else?

Edited to say; I re-read what Notarealsignguy said and see you already answered this question... So sand sold in the concrete area?

 

[SignEST]

That tiny bag of grit was $8, does anyone use something else?

Edited to say; I re-read what Notarealsignguy said and see you already answered this question... So sand sold in the concrete area?

Could always ask for a handful as a sample or something from the bigger yards or pilfer local playgrounds like a cheapo

 

[Notarealsignguy]

That tiny bag of grit was $8, does anyone use something else?

Edited to say; I re-read what Notarealsignguy said and see you already answered this question... So sand sold in the concrete area?

I use sandblast sand when we paint walk areas on machines. Roll on rust-oleum, throw sand, blow it off and roll over the top with another coat of paint. It looks like grip tape. Play sand or mason sand should work, I think it is more course which would give you a more aggressive texture

 

[DarkerKat]

Hey I know this is a really old thread but by any chance do you know how old that monument you were refurbishing was?
background: We have a client who is dead set on stucco for their monument. It's something we have no experience with because the look isn't popular in our market. Want to see if we can get around that by using an aluminum structure and sand aggregate paint like noted above but I want to know if that will cut down severely on the sign's long term durability.

 

[Gino]

Adding sand to some heavy paint should do it or you could just smalts it.

 

[iSign]

Adding sand to some heavy paint should do it or you could just smalts it.

Hey Gino
Happy new year!

Came back here to look into same idea of a faux stucco… probably should start a new thread but have you done much textured monument surfaces, even “real” stucco which might still include thinner textures without a wire mesh, or with.. and trowel or spray…

I already did a test panel with a sand product and spongy textured roller cover and client approved the look, so I may just do that however I think a spray on product might give more consistency over 120 sq ft, wrapping around multiple sides…

I don’t think it needs to include a concrete product or true stucco methods, but maybe that’s still superior enough to consider… just want a good look, with minimal texture, that lasts

 

[John_Smith]

60/60 Rule = 60 feet away at 60 miles an hour, who's going to even take a second look at a painted base with sand in it.
Oh wait, that's right - - - the person who writes the check, that's who looks.

 

[Ron at Forest Litho]

Aluminum is very expansive and contractive with the ambient temperature changes. You need something that not only sticks to it, but is flexible!

 

[Devon19515]

We use a product called Dry-Vit.
Spray it on with a hopper gun then paint over.

 

[bowtievega]

Devon is on point. Dryvit makes products specifically for this. Works on block walls, concrete and metal. We prime the metal first. Stuff sticks like mad. You can roll some latex over it and it looks awesome. Shoot it thru a drywall texture hopper gun. It is also water cleanup. Look up a Dryvit dealer near you like L&W Supply. Montroy sign supply also carries it at least in Phoenix.