• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Q: Paint-able Vinyl

bgunn

New Member
Has anyone used or come across a good pressure-sensitive, vinyl substrate that works well being painted?
We did it years ago with moderate success but the key is painting the vinyl section(s) slowly. So, I thought (maybe) they have generated a paint-able stock by now. Haven't found anything useful in searching the internet thus far - thought I would try here.
What brand/type of vinyl?
What brand/type of paint?

Thanks.
BGunn
 

rjssigns

Active Member
Before the advent of digital printing I used to airbrush effects on cast vinyl. For simple fades Krylon was the go to(thanks Butch) but I think the formula has changed.

All the other work was done with automotive paint and clear. I made some really trick looking vinyl with House of Kolor products. Their Kandies, marbelizers etc, worked well and looked great.

As far as conformability you aren't going to wrap with it. If you need some type of custom effect wrap first then airbrush/clear your design.

For the TLDR crowd:
Use any Cast vinyl
Use any Solvent based automotive paint/clear.
 

d fleming

New Member
Way back before squirty jets, I used krylon on vinyl to make fades before cutting. The keytones made it adhere really well. But as you said, a little at a time or the properties that make the paint stick to the vinyl can ruin it if applied too liberally. Another trick was to spatter vinyl with water then spray paint in air over it allowing paint to settle as it falls. After drying if you were lucky it looked like water droplets in the paint. Cool effect. Back then one shot stuck to vinyl well also. Don't know about todays one shot. I don't hear great things from the old guys in my age group about the new stuff.
 

ProSignTN

New Member
rjssigns, We drove 300 miles so Superfrog could show us how to spit water in the air to make the 'wet' look. What a dude he was. Had a blast that day and learned a lot. I used the wet technique and the crumbled marble for many years until the ink squirters came along.
 

ProSignTN

New Member
d fleming, the Krylon for Plastic shows what I believe are polypropylene items on the can. If it will stick to polyprop, then it aught to dang near etch polyvinyl.
 

JWitkowski

New Member
Years ago I used Frog Juice then 1-Shot over top of that - airbrushed or lettering quill - on 3M/Gerber vinyl. You had to be really, really careful when using a medium tack mask if painting first then applying the painted vinyl to a vehicle. Occasionally, removing the mask pulled off some paint. Damn, that was frustrating.
 

bowtievega

Premium Subscriber
We paint vinyl quite often to match specific colors on jobs. We spray an adhesion promoter on first prior to spraying Grip Guard Plus urethane paint. Has always worked well. I believe the adhesion promoter is VPS-1.
 

rjssigns

Active Member
rjssigns, We drove 300 miles so Superfrog could show us how to spit water in the air to make the 'wet' look. What a dude he was. Had a blast that day and learned a lot. I used the wet technique and the crumbled marble for many years until the ink squirters came along.
Too cool. When I was starting out I had many conversations with Superfrog. Always helpful.
 

p10-200

New Member
is somebody using print heads SAPPHIRE QSBP-256 ?
do you have some problems?
we have two problems one is with electronic of the head example half of the head vanishd because the electronics stop working and we dont know what is the reason.
second problem is that foil that is on side of the head it open when we do a purge so the head is not good any more.

please help we have a DURST p10-200
 

Attachments

  • sapphire electronic.jpg
    sapphire electronic.jpg
    205 KB · Views: 84
  • 20211208_125718.jpg
    20211208_125718.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 85
Top