Roland CJ Service Manual Needed. How to convert to Eco Solvent

[khanasohrab]

Hi Roland CJ500 Users:

1. I bought a Roland CJ500 used and could not run it, because I was not having ColorChoice 4.5. I got this after long wait. Now machine is not cutting at all. Test cut is okay, but when I send command to cut the job, machine starts running but does not perform cut on Vinyl.
2. Obviously the print head has been clogged, so I have to clean up the heads or change the heads as needed, but I don't have service manual, if Some one can send the pdf file or Video file that would be great!!!
My Email: khanasohrab@hotmail.com

3. If the heads are gone, I would like to change Roland CJ 500 heads to Eco Solvent Inks. Please guide me.
I am really very hopeful, help is on way.

 

[Robert M]

Heads

I have heads for that printer, $199.00 each (takes two)
Robert
www.solventinkjet.com
I also have the tech manual

 

[khanasohrab]

Hi:
Can you send me the service manual for now?
thanks

 

[khanasohrab]

Hi Everyone:

Could some one tell me from where to get better deal on Epson 3000 Printer head? I need Color and Black Both. I may also need pump for Roland CJ500.

 

[artbot]

i've got two that i was going to put in an fj50. but we later moth balled it to use a mimaki instead. was going to put them on ebay. brand new. never been plugged in.

 

[gbd]

you need 2 color heads for that machine. you can find them at www.solventprinterconversions.com thats where i get mine. 182.50 shipped each.

 

[CropMarks]

Dave at solventprinterconversion.com is a GREAT GUY. super helpful and trustworthy.... he helped me convert my fj-540 and I couldn't be happier. his heater kit is really a great quality product. If you buy a kit from him it comes with everything you need. (I think heads are extra???... but super cheap on that model)

 

[beppe34]

Hi (converting Roland cj500 to solvent ink)
I just recived a delivery from Dave at solventprinterconversion.com with "all that you need". Well I problably got all hardware that I need - but I lack of instructions how to change parts and where to install stuff...

Do anyone here have any instructions on where to start with the conversion process and how to install heaters and so on...

 

[ChicagoGraphics]

You should contact Bovages he's a member out here, he's done many conversions.
There are no instructions on converting over to eco solvent, not that I know about.

 

[beppe34]

Hi
I am about to convert my CJ 500 to run solvent inks.

I would be very glad if someone could point out any first steps.

I begin with a photo of the stuff in the package from solventprinterconversion.com.
(sorry for bad photo -- it's taken by my useless mobile!)

1. cable-organizer
2. silicone
3 heat-controller box
4 printer heads ( 2pc )
5 bulk ink cartridges ( 8 pc )
6 heatsensors (maybe)
7 dont know
8 O-rings
9 Capping station
10 heating-bands
11 "hole" - protection
12 cleaning-sticks
13 dampers (3 bags)
14 pump
15 syringes

I also have a service manual for my cj500.

What should I start doing?

/beppe34

PS
sorry for bad english and maybe wrong name of things above -- english is not my first language.
DS

 

[beppe34]

sfr_table_hockey thanks for your reply in the other thread.
I would definitly get skype, webcams and stuff if I get stuck and needs "hands on" advice.
Many many many thanks to you for that offer!!!!!

So far I have done following steps;

- Studied the service manual for "print head replacement"
- I did a "pump up" action.
- I did a "head wash" action and used six cartridges with isopropanol in them as "cleaning cartridges".
- pump up action again to get rid of the isopropanol.
- changed both printheads, all dampers and o-rings according to instructions in the service manual.
- I did not fill ink yet.
- Replaced cappingstation and pump with the help of the service manual.
- I did a lot of cleaning.
- Moved the drain bottle to the front of the machine so I would not be using the very thin drain tubes. I am using only the thicker ones.
- I did all the adjustments according to service manual;
-- Limit position initialize
-- Flushing position adjustment
-- Cut down position adjustment
....
So this is my current position.

Before I start filling ink and so on I would now like to install the heaters.

Questions are;
1. Positioning of the heating bands?
-- near the printing head as possible? Without covering the media sensor holes. Is that a good position?

2. How to “glue” the bands with silicone?
-- Should I cover a “film” of silicone all over the heating band to ensure full contact with plate?
-- Should I lay out a S-string of silicone and slap the heating band on the plate?
-- Should I do small clogs of silicone “here and there”?
-- other…

3. Where will I fit the heatsensors?
-- Heat sensors is like a cable.
-- Should I “glue” it with silicone to the Heading band?
-- should I “glue” it with silicone beside the heating band?
-- should I place it somewhere else?

Best regards
Beppe34

 

[beppe34]

I will post pics to describe where I am about to put the heaters.

If I don't hear any objections I will put them as this picture.

best regard
Beppe34

PS
I also post a picture viewing the only real issue I had when replacing print heads. I could not figure-out how to fit the cable to the main bord - then my 16 year old son glanced at the problem and said -- you must pull out the connection thing and slide it back togheter with the cable!
Silly me!
DS

 

[sfr table hockey]

I think you are on the right track with gluing the heat strips in. I have my temp reading device (cooking probe) right inside the between the heat cables and the platten so it may read a slight bit hotter than the top of the platten where the media touches but still reads consistant.

With those cable connections just take care to seat them propper and not bend any of the connecting tips.

Not sure how much the back side of the heat plates give off for heat but with mine I did install some insulation (for furnace type stuff) over the back and taped with ducting tape (foil type) as this has a very high temp resistance. I didn't want the inside to heat up where the wires were etc.

Also now that you have flushed the water based inks out and flushed with isopropal, before you add dampers and print heads to the line I would flush (manually with one refill cart with some solvent cleaning solution and using a syringe) all the lines, one at a time moving the cart from slot to slot, to draw out any left over residue. Draw some solution, keep the syringe attached, remove the cart and then continue to draw with the syringe till you draw air. I would connect the syringe to the line that comes off the damper with the brass nut. You will notice in the syringe as the solvent solution flushes, some gel like blobs. This would be the water based fluid mixing with the solvent. If that gets in the heads it might be harder to get out later. Once you can draw clear solvent solution then you should be good to connect the ink lines back to the dampers.

 

[ChicagoGraphics]

I'm curious, how much did that kit cost?

 

[beppe34]

Thanks sfr table hockey for your input.

I have now put the heaters in.

I disconnected the ink-lines from dampers and flushed all lines with solvent cleaning – due to tip from table hockey!.

I did a "Fill ink" routine with solvent cleaner in all cartridges and discovered that no fluid was going through the left print header --:-( ... did a Capping position adjustment again and then it start to work -- the machine is quite sensitive in adjustments.

I also turned the "model selector" switch on the motherboard and the machine now present itself as a sc-500

So .. what is next … am I ready to flush the machine from solvent cleaning and fill ink in?

I am eager to start the calibration of printheaders and so on.

Regarding price of the package… I ordered conversion kit #3 from solventprinterconverstion.com. It costs 1770$ and two new print heads a 295$ and shipping to Sweden.

I received all stuff in the package but not any instructions at all. I have guessed my actions all the way… and that’s not good, but I have a growing work queue and must get this machine going as soon as possible and I do not have time to wait for any instructions from Dave at solventprierconver….

It's now dark night here in Sweden and I will try to get a few hours of sleep and then "maybe, maybe" be able to do a testprint tomorow...

Best regards
Beppe34

 

[sfr table hockey]

When you start adjusting the heads by loosening that small screw holding the heads in place and then moving that black bent up bar in front of the heads, make sure you have a magnifying glass to read the test prints. You should be able to get them lined up almost exact. More than a 1/2 line out I would keep trying. I always have issues with the side lever on the right heads where it does not seem to catch the head and do anything so most times I just try to move the head ever so slightly manually.

After the heads are lined then do the other test prints where you change the numbers in the printer menu.

Also for most things I print with the heads in the high position and if I ever get a static issue I lower the heads and it helps but if not I keep them high.

Number one thing to remember is to keep the drain lines clear and check them before every days use.

 

[beppe34]

Thanks for your input!

I had a problem with the capping station position -- when I did a Fill ink - routine it did not get any ink i any of the three lines connected to the left head. When I ran solvent cleaner in the cartridges it worked but then it stopped working.

I started all over with the capping position adjustment and got it working. I state once again - pretty sensitive whit that position!!!

Then I did print-head alignments and print-cut adjustments and so on.

The testprint of the left head is not perfect and I am a little concerned over that!
I thought I would se perfect testprints but the left head shows about the same pattern as the old head that I replaced.

It's a brand new print-head -- should'nt the testprint be perfect?

Now I have printed my first rollup and I see that I have to learn about color profiles and color management
The print looks a tiny bit more green than it should!

If anyone have any questions regarding converting cj 500 - rolands - I would be very happy to give my feedback.

Best regards
beppe34

 

[sfr table hockey]

The testprint of the left head is not perfect and I am a little concerned over that!
I thought I would se perfect testprints but the left head shows about the same pattern as the old head that I replaced.

It's a brand new print-head -- should'nt the testprint be perfect?

When you first put in a new head it can take a few cleaning cycles to get the heads to all fire perfect. Yes they should all be perfect but the odd time I have had one or two nossles not fire right away and a week or so down the road they open up and work. I have one on the waterbased printer that still has not opened up but it's just one but has been several weeks.

Keep in mind that when a head does not recharge or fill, it may not always be the captop but could be that line throught the pump. It can get a bit of a blockage (even after a day or two) and thus not draw ink. The flush of cleaning fluid may have cleared the line and it may not have been the captop this time.

As for the color issues, what ink are you running in the printer?

 

[beppe34]

I will hope the left print-head willl "clear itself" and start behaving better...

I am using a eco solvent ink tha suppose to be compatible with Roland Eco Solvent. It's some China ink branded Colorbest ( the same ink supplier that delivered the pigment ink used by the sign-shop where i got the machine from ).

Regarding colors: -- MY God -- it's a djungel of ICC, Spot Colors, Pantone, colormeters and you name it!

I have looked around for a simple "How to" to setup and calibrate the design-software with the rip and print so all programs shows colors as near printresult as possible.

I am using;
-Adobe Illustrator
-Adobe Photoshop
-FlexiSign with production manager.
and I have not found any simple "how to" calbrate colors.

Maybe this is an issue for another thread but I would be very glad to find a thread that explained about configuring colors for the screen, software and printer that make all showing near correct colors.

Color profiles are provided by
- hardware manufacturer
- Ink suppliers
- Print media suppliers
and I think it's a djungel!

Anyone that can point out a color "how to" thread is worth a star i heaven.

Best regard
beppe34

 

[sfr table hockey]

I am by far not the best one to talk about color management but here it goes.

If you print with Roland inks then the Roland profiles should give you accurate color when you print. What you see on a monitor may be close but if you don't have a tool to profile your monitor you may not see the right color there.

If you use other inks, they may not be exact compared to Roland, although I have heard that Solaris is very close. I was also told 11/10 inks were close but until I made my own profiles they were not (long time back). What the profile does is tell the printer how much ink to spit out to make the "so called right color on the media you use" by reading a bunch of test prints that you print with your printer, without any color management on those medias.

If you print photo stuff you will notice the color issue more. If you are just trying to match a color in a layout then there are work arounds.

If you can get a profile that works close to what you want for color and also that it lays the right amount of ink down, then you could just print a color chart (for each media you use) and then record the setting you used to print those charts. The you look at the color on the chart and use that color in your layout so even if you don't see the right color on the monitor, you know it will look like that once printed.

All the setting you use for input profiles to output profiles, rendering intent all factor into results.

It may be easier to get an ink that you know prints like a Roland ink than to buy $1500 worth of profile making equipment. Or use the same ink another guy uses that can make profiles and share them.

Some things I can print with the Regular Roland profiles and they look fine but others, I need the made profile. I am using a Lyson 2000 ink and still early so I don't know if I like it as well as the old 11/10 or not. So far I can still use the same made profiles even though I have only switched out a couple colors.