Roland sp 300-v

j0el1212

New Member
So I recently purchase a used Roland sp300-v in great condition. So here where things get interesting. It keeps printing streaks in the design. I did a powerful wash then a head soak didn’t improve the conditions. So in the test print magenta was missing a lot of lines I’ll try to upload it later. I then changed the cap top Also changed the dampers and nothing improved. when I purchased it the previous owner had tons of spare parts I changed the print head. Now when I do a test print I get nothing at all from magenta also nothing from cyan went over the video several times and can’t seem to find anything from. HELP PLEASE. THANKS.
 
Last edited:

Notarealsignguy

Active Member
If I follow, you need to pull some ink into the damper. There's a lot of info on how to do it but a new head needs to be primed more or less. It's also good practice to change the oring on the damper where the line attaches
 

j0el1212

New Member
211B5032-FD4D-4B54-8361-9E164A0E3B60.jpeg
 

j0el1212

New Member
So I just switched the black and blue damper to the magenta and yellow print head and the magenta and yellow to the Blk and blue printhead to see it would work and the same thing happening no magenta or yellow only Blk and blue. So now I’m almost certain it isn’t the Printhead and it must be the lines of damper.
 

Notarealsignguy

Active Member
You have air in the magenta line, you can clearly see it. It looks like you may also have an air pocket in the yellow. Personally, I like to fix one problem at a time or you end up creating more.
 
So I just switched the black and blue damper to the magenta and yellow print head and the magenta and yellow to the Blk and blue printhead to see it would work and the same thing happening no magenta or yellow only Blk and blue. So now I’m almost certain it isn’t the Printhead and it must be the lines of damper.
That is a good troubleshooting technique to narrow down the issue. But, after switching the dampers, did you do a cleaning, preferably a medium cleaning to flush the other color inks from the head? If the test print done after this is K/C, but physically where the M/Y normally is, then you have verified the print head is good.

As several have said and your pictures show, you have an obvious issue with air in the magenta line. I would suggest the following:
Get several of these - https://www.solventinkjet.com/product-page/10ml-tapered-syringe
Make sure the nut attaching the ink line is very tight. Did you replace the O-ring, as has been suggested? If you don't have any, then you can get these - https://www.solventinkjet.com/product-page/2mm-o-ring-pack-of-5

Use the above syringe to pull ink through the damper until you have the air out of the line and the damper is full. I hold the damper upside down while doing this to get most of the air out of the damper. It isn't necessary to get all the air out of the damper, having it 3/4 quarters full of ink is satisfactory.. Once you think you have done that, empty the syringe and pull a little more ink, watching the thin channel in the damper for any air bubbles. If there are no bubbles, then put the dampers back in their correct locations, and do at least a medium clean, and a test print. If you still have no M/Y in the test print or a crummy test print in the M/Y, then you need to look at the capping alignment.

Please let us know...
 
Last edited:

j0el1212

New Member
59F31E43-D2B8-41A7-B39A-304A8F19F426.jpeg
Update I got the air out did a medium clean and did a test print and nothing just blue and Blk perfect but no signs of magenta or yellow. I did order new O-rings as suggested. But besides that I have no idea what the heck to go to next. Any suggestions here a pic of the lines and damper now.
 

Notarealsignguy

Active Member
I think you can swap the ribbon connection and see if you get the other head going. If you do the it's a fuse. Make sure you turn the printer off with the main switch and hit the power button a few times to discharge any remaining power. There are lots of threads on fixing the head fuses if it turns out to be that.
 

j0el1212

New Member
That is a good troubleshooting technique to narrow down the issue. But, after switching the dampers, did you do a cleaning, preferably a medium cleaning to flush the other color inks from the head? If the test print done after this is K/C, but physically where the M/Y normally is, then you have verified the print head is good.

As several have said and your pictures show, you have an obvious issue with air in the magenta line. I would suggest the following:
Get several of these - https://www.solventinkjet.com/product-page/10ml-tapered-syringe
Make sure the nut attaching the ink line is very tight. Did you replace the O-ring, as has been suggested? If you don't have any, then you can get these - https://www.solventinkjet.com/product-page/2mm-o-ring-pack-of-5

Use the above syringe to pull ink through the damper until you have the air out of the line and the damper is full. I hold the damper upside down while doing this to get most of the air out of the damper. It isn't necessary to get all the air out of the damper, having it 3/4 quarters full of ink is satisfactory.. Once you think you have done that, empty the syringe and pull a little more ink, watching the thin channel in the damper for any air bubbles. If there are no bubbles, then put the dampers back in their correct locations, and do at least a medium clean, and a test print. If you still have no M/Y in the test print or a crummy test print in the M/Y, then you need to look at the capping alignment.

Please let us know...
Hey I changed the prints I ordered from you guys and I’m waiting on the ribbons mean while I wanted to check the fuses but I can seem to locate them where exactly are they?
 

j0el1212

New Member
Found the tiny fuses. Lol now how do I see if they need to be replaced. They look fine but I know that’s doesn’t mean anything.
 

Attachments

  • F9384880-7CEA-4FCB-A3B2-065C15FCC6E2.jpeg
    F9384880-7CEA-4FCB-A3B2-065C15FCC6E2.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 43
You are not pulling ink through the M/Y head. That is the first issue that must be solved. There are several adjustment to be made to insure the capping is correct. Do you have a service manual?

Those are the fuses. Measure them with a resistance meter on it's most sensitive scale. They should read zero. If either of them reads open, that indicates either a damaged or incorrectly inserted ribbon, a shorted transistor on the main board or a bad print head.

Where are you located in Florida?
 
Top