Roll up / slat door vinyl install tips

[TeamOutlaw]

Hoping some of you have experience / tips / tricks for installing graphics on roll-up / slat doors on vehicles such as the firetruck pic attached. Beer & pop distributing vans & trailers utilize this same style door.

First firetruck we did, I applied the vinyl SOLID over the slats, then just used an xacto knife to slice each seam. That was quick & easy, but didn't work in the long run as the doors were rolled the vinyl edges started to curl. So, we went back and trimmed 1/8" strips from each slat gap. That worked great...but it is NOT a speedy process and takes precision to not "over cut" and leave knife marks on the aluminum slats.

We just secured a job to do 30 trailers that each have a 5' x 8' aluminum roll-up door on them that will mostly likely be FULL coverage. I'm hoping someone has some tips / tricks for making this as painless as possible to install. I've even tried having the plotter trim the 1/8" gaps in the graphics...that worked, sort of. But if, the gaps shift even the slightest bit the entire graphic is goofed. TIA

 

[DirtyD]

When you cut in the seam did you take a SEAL IT pen and seal the edge down? That's what I would do - After cutting roll the door up little by little and take that pen to the edges - wouldn't take long at all

 

[TeamOutlaw]

When you cut in the seam did you take a SEAL IT pen and seal the edge down? That's what I would do - After cutting roll the door up little by little and take that pen to the edges - wouldn't take long at all

No, didn't use a SealIt pen. I don't think that would work either though...the aluminum slats have a really subtle rounded edge to them. So, unless you actually take a strip out...the edge will fail over time at least from my experience.

 

[Andy D]

When you cut in the seam did you take a SEAL IT pen and seal the edge down? That's what I would do - After cutting roll the door up little by little and take that pen to the edges - wouldn't take long at all

Agreed, plus I would pick my venders brain about the best vinyl and overlaminate to use for this job... I'm thinking
wrap or even wall vinyl that goes down with a heat gun.. better to ask them though.

IMHO the best option is the way you did it first, as one piece, I don't see
cut slits ever lining up on all the vehicles.

 

[SellersSign&Design]

Measuring the door you are working on and setting up the cuts in the design is definitely the best method. If you do put it on as one piece and trim it, you can't just slit it because it will fail every time like you said. I wish one of the knifeless tape companies would come up with a dual filament tape just for doing roll up doors, that would be great.

 

[Andy D]

Measuring the door you are working on and setting up the cuts in the design is definitely the best method. If you do put it on as one piece and trim it, you can't just slit it because it will fail every time like you said. I wish one of the knifeless tape companies would come up with a dual filament tape just for doing roll up doors, that would be great.

Even for 30 trucks? You probably have more experience, but just wondering, wouldn't there be slight differences in spacing per truck?

 

[qmr55]

I don't understand why you can't just trim on both sides of the groove? Two cuts instead of one. Push it down and post heat it.

We do it on roll up doors on box truck wraps and never had an issue...

 

[J Hill Designs]

I would make a cutting jig (maybe with a firm squeegee) that has a razor blade on each side. xacto the slit's open, then use the slit as a guide for your jig -- with razor blades on each side, you can cut the 1/8" gap top and bottom at the same time - a little practice and you can get the right pressure to not cut the alum.

hope that makes sense.

 

[SellersSign&Design]

Even for 30 trucks? You probably have more experience, but just wondering, wouldn't there be slight differences in spacing per truck?

As long as the doors are the same size and same brand, there shouldn't be any differences in spacing. Just make sure to get your measurements with the door firmly closed. Also another little trick if the doors are new, open and shut them a few times before installing. The slats have some side to side movement and normaly settle into a certain position after being "broken in". If you just apply the graphics to a new door, the slats are likely to shift side to side slightly and your alignment will be off. It could still happen anyways, just the nature of the beast.

 

[TeamOutlaw]

I don't understand why you can't just trim on both sides of the groove? Two cuts instead of one. Push it down and post heat it.

We do it on roll up doors on box truck wraps and never had an issue...

By "box" truck I assume you mean cube trucks / moving trucks...we are wrapping one right now. There are only 4 panels to trim. Will take maybe 10mins. These aluminum roll up doors will have 30-50 slats (1"-2" wide) x 8' long each...will take HOURS to trim each unit.

The gap between slats is so small, you can't trim the "top & bottom"...I know what you're suggesting, but the gap isn't wide enough to this. It's barely wide enough for an xacto blade to slide into.

 

[qmr55]

By "box" truck I assume you mean cube trucks / moving trucks...we are wrapping one right now. There are only 4 panels to trim. Will take maybe 10mins. These aluminum roll up doors will have 30-50 slats (1"-2" wide) x 8' long each...will take HOURS to trim each unit.

The gap between slats is so small, you can't trim the "top & bottom"...I know what you're suggesting, but the gap isn't wide enough to this. It's barely wide enough for an xacto blade to slide into.

That'd be a good assumption.

But I still stand by the fact that if you're using the CORRECT vinyl to wrap those "slat" doors, I don't see why you can't cut it twice and make sure its all pushed down. No reason it wouldn't stay down. And hours? Really? Maybe 15-20 minutes at most. But if you charge accordingly then that won't be a problem....

 

[TeamOutlaw]

Agreed, plus I would pick my venders brain about the best vinyl and overlaminate to use for this job... I'm thinking
wrap or even wall vinyl that goes down with a heat gun.. better to ask them though.

IMHO the best option is the way you did it first, as one piece, I don't see
cut slits ever lining up on all the vehicles.

We will be using 3M IJ180cv3 wrap film for the rest of the vehicle...may have to look into another option for these doors. Was hoping maybe someone on here does the roll-up doors for Budweiser or Pepsi and had some secrets to share.

The firetruck like I have shown HAS TO BE reflective film...so, no "options" there for other films in the case of safety vehicles such as that.

 

[TeamOutlaw]

That'd be a good assumption.

But I still stand by the fact that if you're using the CORRECT vinyl to wrap those "slat" doors, I don't see why you can't cut it twice and make sure its all pushed down. No reason it wouldn't stay down. And hours? Really? Maybe 15-20 minutes at most. But if you charge accordingly then that won't be a problem....

The firetruck doors shown took 15mins per door to trim the reflective slits...2 doors per side x 2 sides = an hour. And those doors were only 2.5' wide each, and not full coverage. The doors we are going to be doing are 5'H x 8'W will FULL (100%) coverage. I have no doubt it WILL take hours.

This is my 22nd year doing signage / vehicle graphics, so I wouldn't consider myself a rookie.

We are most definitely going to charge / get paid for it...that's not the concern. My concern or "hope" is that we can find a solution that not only results in a great product, but isn't torturous / laborious.

 

[J Hill Designs]

*cough* cutting jig you slide along the slat space *cough*

 

[TeamOutlaw]

*cough* cutting jig you slide along the slat space *cough*

Great idea...just trying to envision how to actually make one...

You make one up and I'll buy it from you.

 

[J Hill Designs]

Great idea...just trying to envision how to actually make one...

You make one up and I'll buy it from you.

quick prototype attached (with 30 trucks to do like this I would spend more time on it securing the blades)

 

[Andy D]

*cough* cutting jig you slide along the slat space *cough*

Lol..
They do make them, we used to use one back in the day we did a bunch of Tri-visions,
we had to lay solid print over a bunch of slates that had 1/4" space between them & to save time
someone bought a xacto holder that held two blades and you could adjust the gap between them.

 

[Billct2]

That's what I was just going to suggest, a dual blade xacto. I still have one in my sign kit

 

[Brandon708]

Can't you just measure the slat and how much space in your program and cut it with the lines in it already. Then just line it up then apply.

 

[Pixels Are Bad Mmmkay?]

Can't you just measure the slat and how much space in your program and cut it with the lines in it already. Then just line it up then apply.

That would be my thinking, as well. It shouldn't be very difficult to line up at all.