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Smart Film - Anyone ever worked with this nightmare?

Ctrl.Alt.Del

New Member
Smart Film - it's super cool once it's installed, but installing it I found to be horrible!
Smart Film is an extremely thick "vinyl" that gets hooked up to a very low voltage power supply.
When no power is applied, the film looks close to frosted etched.
But once power is introduced (turn the light switch on) the film turns virtually clear. So you can literally turn your window on, or off. So rad.
But it's sooooo thick. One spec of dust causes a bubble the size of a dime.
One side can look perfect, but the other side has bubbles.
Have any of you used this product? Any tips or tricks?
Thanks!
 

ChicagoGraphics

New Member
Couple of weeks ago I watched from my balcony a bunch of workers installing lettering on a skyscraper, at first they installed it unweeded then each letter is 3 stories high after it was weeded it just looked like a silverish vinyl but at night it lights up like channel lettering, is this the same vinyl as you mention?
 

SignMeUpGraphics

Super Active Member
Couple of weeks ago I watched from my balcony a bunch of workers installing lettering on a skyscraper, at first they installed it unweeded then each letter is 3 stories high after it was weeded it just looked like a silverish vinyl but at night it lights up like channel lettering, is this the same vinyl as you mention?

Sounds different to this. Think of it as switchable frosting:
 

ikarasu

Active Member
I've done a few. A small crinkle and the whole panel is damaged... It doesn't heat out like frosted does. And yes, it's a pain... No dust or anything can get behind it or you're screwed.

It's a cool effect, but the stuff is so pricey and it's so unforgiving it's not worth it.

https://smartfilm.com/collections/sample-kits these guys sell small kits if you just want to play with it.

From what I've been told you can't just cut it with a vinyl cutter you need to use a laser so it seals (no idea if true or not). I give it the equivalent to fascera from 3m.. both a nightmare to work with. Why make a super expensive decorative vinyl that's sooo unforgiving when my cheap mactac frosted can get crinkled into a ball and re heated back to perfect shape.
 

SignBoi

New Member
Smart Film - it's super cool once it's installed, but installing it I found to be horrible!
Smart Film is an extremely thick "vinyl" that gets hooked up to a very low voltage power supply.
When no power is applied, the film looks close to frosted etched.
But once power is introduced (turn the light switch on) the film turns virtually clear. So you can literally turn your window on, or off. So rad.
But it's sooooo thick. One spec of dust causes a bubble the size of a dime.
One side can look perfect, but the other side has bubbles.
Have any of you used this product? Any tips or tricks?
Thanks!
Hey Dave, We used to install it regularly for a client but it ended up failing too often (at sea...) so they switched to frosted.
Another client had it installed to their street facing windows, the cleaner snagged the power cable and ripped it out from the vinyl...
It was hard to install without any dust getting under it and we had to seal the edge with a special caulking tube.
Cool but needs improvement.
 

WhiskeyDreamer

Professional Snow Ninja
can you do a wet application? im assuming not because of the electrical component, but whenever i do windows, i do wet application.
 

bob

It's better to have two hands than one glove.
How exactly is power physically connected to the vinyl? Are there terminals on the material?
 

Stacey K

I like making signs
I sure hope this isn't the future of all vinyl or I'll be out of a job. This does NOT look like fun.

 

MikePro

New Member
yup. its a pita, but as the video shows.... cleanliness is godliness. definitely not fun until you get into a groove on your 3rd out of 20+ window project, but super satisfying turning it on/off a million times after install while patting yourself on the back.
I'm still slightly disappointed with the finished product... the prismatic haze that comes with any glare that hits the film is a bit of a turnoff. its clear, but the haze makes it feel more like 90% with a hint of rainbow.

anywho, aaaand the rant goes like:

DO NOT wet apply, its the silicone-based glass adhere stuff and moisture will never migrate out and the adhesive won't stick.

lint-free EVERYTHING, clothing, microfiber rags, etc. I even brought my dyson vacuum from home so I could suck every bit of dust out of the room as possible, as to not kick it up during install. if there's drop ceiling nearby, it could be worth dusting as well right off the bat with some flicks of a microfiber. then vacuum&clean some more.

you won't be able to handle large sheets rolled-up like a wall/car wrap, don't even bother trying.
Tack the whole sheet up square & flat against the glass and apply that line gently. (i pre-cut 2" of the backer off the top line and pinch-folded 1" down from that to easily grab&peel from behind the sheet) It should hold well enough to be your "hinge" for the rest of the sheet. You'll have bubbles, no sweat, just peel it back a few inches to properly apply after you've dealt with the rest.

only peel as you're ready to go, and work top-down...only peeling the liner just enough to stay 6-18" ahead of your line, and squeegee gently but with intent. much like your smartphone protective glass, it wants to stick and self-level as it leans-onto the glass so you should be constantly slicing with your squeegee to keep that line moving downward consistantly. panels wider than 3', highly recommend a 2nd set of hands, both peeling and overlapping each other's strokes from center-out as you both work top-down.

if you see a spec of debris, FULL STOP, grab some painter's tape and peel the sheet up juuuust enough to get a hand in there with the tape and dab it off. sometimes its hard to see it once you've lifted the sheet back up, so i'll mark it with a torn piece of painter's tape before I pull the sheet up and trust that a couple solid dabs with the tape will grab whatever was there. rinse&repeat as needed. not squeegee'ng super hard during application saves you a TON of $$$ if you dent/embed the material with the debris. its not normal vinyl adhesive and won't heal with heat/love if you marr it.

oh yeah, and DO NOT introduce moisture anywhere near the copper/silverpaste strips. seal it up asap and especially before any final cleanups. I used a wet rag to cleanup my caulking lines and a drop of water must have gotten into the sealed area.... a week later the entire length of the sheet was fried because the copper/silver rusted and jumped in the middle, shorting it out beyond repair.

and if you have to trim it, DO NOT use a knife. the material requires a compression cut like a shear or, in a pinch, a sharp pair of scissors. drag knives separate the layers, ever so slightly, marring the liquid crystal layer, and then puffs out/shorts out when powering on.
 

MikePro

New Member
How exactly is power physically connected to the vinyl? Are there terminals on the material?
low voltage wires get soldered onto both sides of the film along an edge, which is spanned by silver paste & copper strips that introduce the current that rides on either-side of the liquid crystal layer sandwiched inside the two layers of plastic. creates a low voltage arc that orients the tube-shaped liquid crystals to be perpendicular with the film & become clear when powered on.
 

MikePro

New Member
oh, and it scratches easily. It comes with a protective film layer for application, but once its removed it needs to be known that it will look like the hood of a car your kid washed with a beach towel unless you take special non-abrasive care when cleaning.
 

MikePro

New Member
still, super cool stuff. highly recommend you take your supplier up on their training program before you start practicing with pricey material or particular clients. I got swept up into this stuff during covid, so onsite training was nonexistant & I had to learn via interwebz/zoom.
 
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