Hello folks, I haven't hand lettered for 20 years, yeah went the way of the computer but I'm back now trying to re-learn so I can do some side work starting with my own car and wanted to achieve and aged looking sign on an old VW car door. I went the old route with a pounce wheel and chalk and then hand lettered using 1 shot with 1 shot flattener and high temp reducer. The paint has been curing in 105 degree heat for a week, yeah, its hot in Bakersfield. The problem is, I was expecting the paint to sand down to a transparent version of itself, yet Its chipping and scratching more than anything. Is there something wrong with my process? I also tried wiping with reducer, laquer thinner and sanding with finer paper. Adhesion seems to also be an issue. I don't remember 1 shot paint being this difficult to work with.
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Trying to age a newly painted sign
- Thread starter evlwevl
- Start date
OldPaint
New Member
#1.........if you were looking for faded old paint look.......then you shoulda painted it that way rather then trying to knock it back now. anything you do to the paint is also gona effect the door paint. so then your gona have to age the WHOLE CAR!!!
WHITE PAINT & BLACK shoulda been thinned to begin with........putting on thinned 1 shot....light coats 1 or 2 no more......this would give ya that "faded over time" look as some of the door color woulda come thru. then you coulda hit the white with a little 000 steel wool to open up the door color to come out... when you got it where you want it then do a semi gloss clear
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/143387
WHITE PAINT & BLACK shoulda been thinned to begin with........putting on thinned 1 shot....light coats 1 or 2 no more......this would give ya that "faded over time" look as some of the door color woulda come thru. then you coulda hit the white with a little 000 steel wool to open up the door color to come out... when you got it where you want it then do a semi gloss clear
http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/143387
0igo
New Member
Hello folks, I haven't hand lettered for 20 years, yeah went the way of the computer but I'm back now trying to re-learn so I can do some side work starting with my own car and wanted to achieve and aged looking sign on an old VW car door. I went the old route with a pounce wheel and chalk and then hand lettered using 1 shot with 1 shot flattener and high temp reducer. The paint has been curing in 105 degree heat for a week, yeah, its hot in Bakersfield. The problem is, I was expecting the paint to sand down to a transparent version of itself, yet Its chipping and scratching more than anything. Is there something wrong with my process? I also tried wiping with reducer, laquer thinner and sanding with finer paper. Adhesion seems to also be an issue. I don't remember 1 shot paint being this difficult to work with.
1 shot paint has gotten a lot tougher to work with especially in the last 8 years, i think they changed their formula or something, but anyways you are going to think i sound like Gina^^, but add a little bit of charcoal lighter fluid to the paint and it gets a lot easier to work with. anyways just my 2 cents and experience with it. try it and see if it helps or ask Gina or Oleg they always have answers and oleg always has gina and gina and oleg have each other.
OldPaint
New Member
CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID?????? OH GOD........how did you arrive there???? the more junk you put in your paint the less life the paint has.......
stick with TURPS or MINERAL SPIRITS. i have in the past mixed LACQUER THINNER in one shot....but only when its really cold....does make paint flow better. and you cant do a lot or it will curddle the 1-shot.
if you can start over......with a flat finish taking the white off.......is gona screw up the flat paint.....so you may as well repaint the whole panel. do the layout, then light coats of THINNED(with the right stuff) till you get a look of faded white paint with some of the background coming thru........now you are closer.......same with the black.....BUT NOT AS EXTream... as black ages less then white would)))
stick with TURPS or MINERAL SPIRITS. i have in the past mixed LACQUER THINNER in one shot....but only when its really cold....does make paint flow better. and you cant do a lot or it will curddle the 1-shot.
if you can start over......with a flat finish taking the white off.......is gona screw up the flat paint.....so you may as well repaint the whole panel. do the layout, then light coats of THINNED(with the right stuff) till you get a look of faded white paint with some of the background coming thru........now you are closer.......same with the black.....BUT NOT AS EXTream... as black ages less then white would)))
0igo
New Member
i hate the thinner stuff, now that stuff does thin it out a lot. again just try it next time, i actually got that tip from a friend and have used it ever since. i know it sounds crazy but when you compare the two products they actually are not much different.
JR's
New Member
I think you have to start over.
Sign craft has a couple of articles on how to do this. [It would be cool if you could go to sign craft website and do a search through all of their old articles] I would pay for that.
Materials you are going to need is one shot paint, Smith cream D406, flattening paste, tree terps, 0000 steel wool and a chamois.
Mix up your white with a little bit of black and imitation gold to get a age white color. Take your color and cut it 50% with Smith cream and add the right amount of flattening agent. Old-timers would use talcum powder to flatten out the paint.
Pouns pattern on your substrate, and start to letter. While the paint is still wet add some stains with a thined out
color of red and brow, mostly thinner. Here and there on the wet letters. Let it run it will wash off of the door easily but stain the wet letters. And take the back of your lettering quell and add some horizontals scratches to the lettering. To look like gouges from branches and such.
Once the lettering is dried you could go at it here and there with the steel wool and chamois to where it out even more.
Because the paint was 50-50 Smith cream and flattening it will look worn out to begin with.
Good luck, have fun.
Sign craft has a couple of articles on how to do this. [It would be cool if you could go to sign craft website and do a search through all of their old articles] I would pay for that.
Materials you are going to need is one shot paint, Smith cream D406, flattening paste, tree terps, 0000 steel wool and a chamois.
Mix up your white with a little bit of black and imitation gold to get a age white color. Take your color and cut it 50% with Smith cream and add the right amount of flattening agent. Old-timers would use talcum powder to flatten out the paint.
Pouns pattern on your substrate, and start to letter. While the paint is still wet add some stains with a thined out
color of red and brow, mostly thinner. Here and there on the wet letters. Let it run it will wash off of the door easily but stain the wet letters. And take the back of your lettering quell and add some horizontals scratches to the lettering. To look like gouges from branches and such.
Once the lettering is dried you could go at it here and there with the steel wool and chamois to where it out even more.
Because the paint was 50-50 Smith cream and flattening it will look worn out to begin with.
Good luck, have fun.
OldPaint
New Member
THE CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID & MINERAL SPIRITS are of petroleum base.......TURPS IS NOT.
they all thin paint........BUT do different thing in combination with paint. i know old sign guys who like GASOLINE..... as their thinner)))) dont mean its good for paint longevity.
if you looked a the the link i put in my post.......and scrolled down the pictures...you will find one that shows you how ITS DONE.........
THIS GUY..........has it down PERFECT. AND iam sure he would answer any questions ya got..........just look at his work......
http://www.markfair.com
they all thin paint........BUT do different thing in combination with paint. i know old sign guys who like GASOLINE..... as their thinner)))) dont mean its good for paint longevity.
if you looked a the the link i put in my post.......and scrolled down the pictures...you will find one that shows you how ITS DONE.........
THIS GUY..........has it down PERFECT. AND iam sure he would answer any questions ya got..........just look at his work......
http://www.markfair.com
Jwalk
New Member
When I have had to do the aged look I do it when applying, as others have said.
I find lately past 3-5 years everything has the aged look. So much easier to do signs this way, IMO. Almost just do a crummy job and your half way there.
I suppose 10 years ago everything had to be super crisp?
I find lately past 3-5 years everything has the aged look. So much easier to do signs this way, IMO. Almost just do a crummy job and your half way there.
I suppose 10 years ago everything had to be super crisp?