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vinyl and vehicle rivets
- Thread starter newyork
- Start date
Very civilized response New York. Would like to comment on useless replies but it would serve no purpose. Appears to be the price to pay for some great input from others. RollePro videos do look sweet. Bought a Rivet Sealer by Blackthorne Tools to help on school buses. Pricey ($250) but great quality. Two buses, 150 rivets a piece, still need more practice. Sure feels good when you get one right though.
Pat Whatley
New Member
Other than the fact it looks like shit when you screw them back in on top of the vinyl.
Hey guys even though you guys are bitchy and disagressing you're helpping. One thing I've learned is there's more there one way 2 skin a cat, and the fact that you gave me your idea's even if others disagress are priceless, so please keep it up. I found over the year that whose who think their way is the way will sooner or later go down in flames. Hey MOSH thanks for saying " it's not for beginners" but you still shared your knowledge with me which means more to me then the other "self proclaimed professional" combined, oh and by the way those few professionals need not add their comments. 2 all the rest I thank you
Bigdawg
Just Me
Damn I hate agreeing with Mosh on principle alone... but we just did a trailer with screws instead of rivets with 3M 180IForgotTheRest v3 and 290G lam. It was mostly die cut pieces but they were big so we went ahead and used the wrap material.
I'll be damned if they could get the screws to quit tenting. They tried the Roller pro on it and at first we thought that was the problem... so they went back over it with the rivet brush and it still sucked. Better with the rivet brush than the roller pro, but still not as flat as I wish it had been.
I still wouldn't take out the screws personally - just don't like the look and would rather see alittle tenting then the screw heads.
I'll be damned if they could get the screws to quit tenting. They tried the Roller pro on it and at first we thought that was the problem... so they went back over it with the rivet brush and it still sucked. Better with the rivet brush than the roller pro, but still not as flat as I wish it had been.
I still wouldn't take out the screws personally - just don't like the look and would rather see alittle tenting then the screw heads.
CheapVehicleWrap
New Member
he said refer semi trailer. Yeah they pulled over one of them last week headed down the jersey turnpike.
Mosh
New Member
Refrigerator trailer you pot head. Did it get pulled over at 4:20? Those are the worst things in the world to letter. I do two truck lines that have them and cringe every time they call. We can apply a full wrap to a semi van style trailer in about 5-6 hours, refer (ha ha) takes 8-10 hours on a good day. I HATE doing them, and stuff never sticks to the refrigeration unit on the front, the covers are a plastic that is not smooth!
Border
New Member
If you had tenting problems then most likely it was from not cleaning thoroughly around the rivets/screws.
If it's clean around the rivet and you heat it.. it will stick welll.
if it is not, you willl heat it and conform it and when you re-heat it, you will see it pop back up from the rivet.... a result of poor prep work most often!
BobM
New Member
Exactly. Cleaning around rivets and screws is not a "quick wipe" but a process. On used trailers the screws will oxidize some and cause adhesion problems.
Clean, clean and clean again and you won't have any problem. Rivet brush or Rolle-Pro with some heat will get good results.
chachimacho
New Member
I hit the screws on trailers with Primer 94. Seems to help a little with the tenting.
mzick
New Member
Wow....lots of rookies on this subject. Many of the small trailers on the road have the self tapping screws insted of rivits. I have taken them out but when you tighten the screws back down, you run the risk if twisting the vinyl. If you try to heat the material down around the screws, you can only get it down so tight. Typically there is a slight bit of tenting around the screws. I prefer to not take the screws out because you are starting to affect the structural integrity of the trailer.
If you are working with rivits, there are several ways to work them. A rolle-pro is one way but it can be time consuming and frustraiting when you close off your air channels. I prefer using a 3M multipin punch tool (looks like a door knob w straight pins ..that give..along the bottom) a few taps over the rivit and then work it with a rivit brush. Then hit it with some heat and brush it again, this helps break the memory and keeps the material down.
The main thing is making sure that you are using the right material for the job.
If you are working with rivits, there are several ways to work them. A rolle-pro is one way but it can be time consuming and frustraiting when you close off your air channels. I prefer using a 3M multipin punch tool (looks like a door knob w straight pins ..that give..along the bottom) a few taps over the rivit and then work it with a rivit brush. Then hit it with some heat and brush it again, this helps break the memory and keeps the material down.
The main thing is making sure that you are using the right material for the job.
Circleville Signs
New Member
Rolle-Pro is fantastic. Also, get an air release tool (little round thing with lots of sharp points that you roll over the rivets).
I use a torch rather than a heat gun, but the same principle applies. The only time that the Rolle-Pro won't do the job on cut vinyl is if your lettering only partially covers the rivet/screw.
Last but not least, you can't really go wrong with an old fashioned rivet brush.
Gary
I use a torch rather than a heat gun, but the same principle applies. The only time that the Rolle-Pro won't do the job on cut vinyl is if your lettering only partially covers the rivet/screw.
Last but not least, you can't really go wrong with an old fashioned rivet brush.
Gary