-
I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...
Wall Easel anyone?
- Thread starter MAB SIGNS
- Start date
Joseph Dunkle
New Member
I use to apply my viyl flat on a table but I have been standing it up verticle recently and like that method better. It seems the vinyl has a lower chance of contamination doing it up off the table.
Geary
New Member
I worked in a sign shop area for a large exhibit company once that had three huge rolling/locking easels. Each were 4 ft. x 40 ft. and they all were built on a 30° angle (did that come out as a degree symbol?).
We had a roller on the ends of them that could hold 36" transferRite tape. Talk about massive amounts of speedy work .....wow! We kicked major butt at that place. There would be as many as 10 people doing nothing but weeding and applying vinyl to all kinds of display substrates for up to 16 hours or more a day just before a show would come to town.
We worked these easels in "stagecoach" fashion in this massive warehouse and because there was so much paper and tape trash that would accumulate so fast .....we just threw the stuff over the easels onto the big triangle area of the floor behind them. The piles of tape and paper on some days would stack up twenty feet!!! The forklift guys would come in and scoop up copious piles of sticky transfer tape and paper like these cool automotive pitchforks...and roll on out to 30 foot trash bins....while we detailed the floors clean every night.
Man....those were good O.T. checks!!!
~G.
We had a roller on the ends of them that could hold 36" transferRite tape. Talk about massive amounts of speedy work .....wow! We kicked major butt at that place. There would be as many as 10 people doing nothing but weeding and applying vinyl to all kinds of display substrates for up to 16 hours or more a day just before a show would come to town.
We worked these easels in "stagecoach" fashion in this massive warehouse and because there was so much paper and tape trash that would accumulate so fast .....we just threw the stuff over the easels onto the big triangle area of the floor behind them. The piles of tape and paper on some days would stack up twenty feet!!! The forklift guys would come in and scoop up copious piles of sticky transfer tape and paper like these cool automotive pitchforks...and roll on out to 30 foot trash bins....while we detailed the floors clean every night.
Man....those were good O.T. checks!!!
~G.
mystysue
New Member
We have a 4' by 24' easel in our back work room for doing banners on. Its great.. Im not sure at the angle it is set at.. but works great.. Its covered with this hard pressed cardboard stuff they use on movie sets to make walls with (Im not sure what its called) That we can stick the metal push pins in to keep the banners tight. Donno how we would do the long banners without.. If you have the space in your shop.. they are a great addition...
That's identical to the ones I've had in the past. I'm getting ready to put up similar in my new little garage shop here.
Joseph Dunkle
New Member
Could Someone Please Possibly Post Some Plans For The Easel?
Jen Goodwin
New Member
We have one, it's a collection spot for finished signs. :Big Laugh
(Okay...I use it on occasion and wouldn't be without it.)
(Okay...I use it on occasion and wouldn't be without it.)
Geary
New Member
Plans? Ha! We don't need no stinking plans! LOL
Really...folks it's super easy. it's just one of those things you do by looking at it and then you add or take away details that fits your particular construction skills. It's all based on 4x8 sections, "tied" together to whatever length you want. Or, just use the one section, for you teensy garage space shops.
Here's a materials list of one of the many ways to build the basic frameworks:
1.) Sheets of plywood
2.) Angle iron
3.) 2x4s
4.) Nails, screws, hinges, wall anchors
Okay.....basically a section is comprised of two sheets of 4x8 material....a backer sheet and a top covering(discussed later)
The backer sheet can be made of regualar old 1/2" A/C plywood (you can get by with 3/8") then, attach 2" angle iron to the bottom for a "lip" to hold things (EVERYTHING!!!....yes, including finished signs Jen..hehe ) On the back of the top edge attach three strong hinges that you'll be, in turn, attaching to 2x4 material on the wall.
Snap a line at about "tippy toe" height on your wall. (Oh, remember you'll be standing about 2 feet back from the wall because of the slant of the easel.) This is where you'll attach those 2x4 pieces.....OR.....if you'd like, run the whole length with 2x4 material.....incorporating the wall anchors and existing wall studs (if possible) for this.
Hang your 4x8 section(s) on the the 2x4 material that is attached securely to the wall. Note * You'll need at least one extra pair of hands for this.
So, now.....you have a hanging section (or sections) on the wall just staring at you. Now what do you do? Well, first grab the bottom of your newly hung easel frame and get a feel for where you want to secure the angle.
Now, I have built these with and without storage racks. The storage racks are the preferred way....obviously. However, I have built easels that could "swing" at different angles....incorporating notched 1x6s attached to the floor. To do this you have to build an additional hinged-and-framed structure that "clicks" into the notches on the floor.
Either way, you guys get the basic picture.....figure it out from there. The way this works is..... you'll even figure out a better easel than I ever did. Have fun learning how to doing rest of it yourself. That's all I'm going to give you.
~Gear
LOL Really...folks it's super easy. it's just one of those things you do by looking at it and then you add or take away details that fits your particular construction skills. It's all based on 4x8 sections, "tied" together to whatever length you want. Or, just use the one section, for you teensy garage space shops.
Here's a materials list of one of the many ways to build the basic frameworks:
1.) Sheets of plywood
2.) Angle iron
3.) 2x4s
4.) Nails, screws, hinges, wall anchors
Okay.....basically a section is comprised of two sheets of 4x8 material....a backer sheet and a top covering(discussed later)
The backer sheet can be made of regualar old 1/2" A/C plywood (you can get by with 3/8") then, attach 2" angle iron to the bottom for a "lip" to hold things (EVERYTHING!!!....yes, including finished signs Jen..hehe ) On the back of the top edge attach three strong hinges that you'll be, in turn, attaching to 2x4 material on the wall.
Snap a line at about "tippy toe" height on your wall. (Oh, remember you'll be standing about 2 feet back from the wall because of the slant of the easel.) This is where you'll attach those 2x4 pieces.....OR.....if you'd like, run the whole length with 2x4 material.....incorporating the wall anchors and existing wall studs (if possible) for this.
Hang your 4x8 section(s) on the the 2x4 material that is attached securely to the wall. Note * You'll need at least one extra pair of hands for this.
So, now.....you have a hanging section (or sections) on the wall just staring at you. Now what do you do? Well, first grab the bottom of your newly hung easel frame and get a feel for where you want to secure the angle.
Now, I have built these with and without storage racks. The storage racks are the preferred way....obviously. However, I have built easels that could "swing" at different angles....incorporating notched 1x6s attached to the floor. To do this you have to build an additional hinged-and-framed structure that "clicks" into the notches on the floor.
Either way, you guys get the basic picture.....figure it out from there. The way this works is..... you'll even figure out a better easel than I ever did. Have fun learning how to doing rest of it yourself. That's all I'm going to give you.
~Gear
Mike Paul
Super Active Member
OldPaint
New Member
this is as simple as it gets.....4 2x4's, couple 2x2 cut and screwed to the back of the 2x4......4 big nails all at the same higth from the floor.....to hold up a sheet of 5/8 4x8 ft plywood. once you got the plywood where you want it...couple short screws to hold it to the 2x4......
SignMan Sez
New Member
I build mine with a 2" X 2" wooden frame with 2 upright supports (each one 32" in from either side), a straight piece of #2 pine 1" X 4" X 96" for the bottom ledge. I make 4 - 6" triangles out of scrap MDO and screw onto the back of the frame to keep it square. I've always used Homasote for the backboard (it's 1/2" thick and accepts push pins really good). Two 3" hinges mounted to a 2X4 mounted on the wall.
robpruitt
New Member
I just picked up a couple of these
http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?catg=535&item=329601&prDeTab=2#A
They are fairly tall and at $199 they are really cheap for how well they are made. However; I had never seen the eisel setup. I really like your arrangement Mystysue. My back gets pretty sore when I work on some larger projects. I'm doing 50 vinyl real estate signs and my back has been feeling it.
http://www.samsclub.com/shopping/navigate.do?catg=535&item=329601&prDeTab=2#A
They are fairly tall and at $199 they are really cheap for how well they are made. However; I had never seen the eisel setup. I really like your arrangement Mystysue. My back gets pretty sore when I work on some larger projects. I'm doing 50 vinyl real estate signs and my back has been feeling it.
Gino
Premium Subscriber
On one of our walls at the top, we ran several 2” x 6” stringers for 50’. At 4’ intervals, we attached a hinged 2” x 4” x 14’ at the top to the stringer. Each 2” x 4” had 1” holes drilled at a slightly angled up position 12” apart. We had many dowels that fit through the holes, against the back wall and that created whatever angle we wanted to work at for a particular project with a clamp. It could hold a 12’ x 52’ sign [billboard size], so we could hand paint them in-house. We needed a stage type set up to get to the top, but we were used to it. We tend to do a lot of things for sport complexes in out area and many of those signs are 8’ or 12’ by 48’.
Now that more and more of that type of production is less and less hand-painted, we don’t need to have an entire sign on an easel at one time. We’re putting these things on now, one board at a time. In fact we removed most of the easel about two years ago. We still have two small painters easels for hand painting a 4’ x 8’ or sandblasted work.
Good Luck.
Now that more and more of that type of production is less and less hand-painted, we don’t need to have an entire sign on an easel at one time. We’re putting these things on now, one board at a time. In fact we removed most of the easel about two years ago. We still have two small painters easels for hand painting a 4’ x 8’ or sandblasted work.
Good Luck.
What about a dual purpose setup.
A workbench that will convert into an easel by simply applying leverage. The worktop area will need to be placed on roller guides which will allow it to slide forward and drop, to form an easel.
If anyone can come up with a suitable design for this contraption then I am sure it will be popular.
"just do it!"
A workbench that will convert into an easel by simply applying leverage. The worktop area will need to be placed on roller guides which will allow it to slide forward and drop, to form an easel.
If anyone can come up with a suitable design for this contraption then I am sure it will be popular.
"just do it!"