Search results

Just looks like solder flux from board manufacturing, might just be a bad board. Going through chip-by-chip troubleshooting is something I don't have the patience to do remotely.

Some boards get power off of adjacent boards and the power is typically a fused connection. If no power, connections, fuses and power supplies are most common issue. Going to have to start probing to see if they are getting power and if so, where it's dropping. Not super easy, but basic...

There will be a good dozen or so connectors not used in the printer, this is normal. Used for optional items, or items removed due to revisions, etc. As for boards, mark connections and remove them, look for damage and check fuses on bottom side if any. If board isn't lighting, that's a bad sign.

Voltage is fine, might be a bad board or fuse. Note that some boards have fuses on both sides and they might not be referenced in the service manual.

There is a latch on the right side of the print carriage, but you will need to remove the top right panel to gently push a long pointy thingy in to release the latch.

Dang, thought you were talking about the gear that is grub-screwed onto the motor shaft.

If you want to wipe down the capping station, wiper and head carriage, you can use isopropyl alcohol to tide you over. Ink inside the bottle station is pretty normal as it is a bit of a pain to remove. Hopefully the ink is still flowing fine. If you get a clog, I'll bet it will be in the black...

Not sure how well god will work, but I recommend a multimeter. :p

Do the easy/cheap steps first. And make sure when disconnecting anything to document where it went carefully. Snap a photo or whatever. Plugging a cable into the wrong port can lead to a ton of troubleshooting hell. If the printer was running when it was turned off, likely to be something...

The RWS1000B-36R is the big 36V power supply in the back of the printer under the main control board (EPL3 or 5 depending on age) that has the USB and network control ports on it. Big silver box, 2 huge terminals with some beefy wires bolted to it. Check that voltage with a meter. Note that...

Common gear for a NEMA 17 stepper, count the teeth and hit eBay. Can also salvage one from another pump if needed. I have a few kicking around.

Could be that, or the board might be damaged. Main voltage being off will get a voltage error for other systems as well.

Fluid 7 is flushing fluid for UV inks, sold in liters (and 2-liter bottles for bigger printers like the JFX500).

Swapping the Lc/Lm to clear is pretty simple. Make sure to get the proper UV flushing fluid for the printer, solvent or aqueous solutions a very bad idea. If near TX, Amcad isn't bad.

As long as it wasn't exposed to sunlight or UV light, will probably have good heads. Might need new subtanks (2x, $120-ish each), probably going to have to get a couple of bottles of flush ($50/liter) and some other consumables. Ink isn't old enough to be a concern, and would probably just roll...

Done this about 5 times so far, what's the condition? Stored for ## months/powered on/off, etc?

Best bet is to run media/size compensation to correct the issue. While changing the head, make sure to do all the calibrations and waveform tests as well to have a good starting point.

Need a set of 8, or just replacing some?

Cap B assembly M014958 AKA SPA-0280. Pricey for about $250-300 for all 8. Might have a new set in my parts bin if you want me to look tomorrow.

There are different caps for LUS350/150 and LH100/LUS120, the 250mL/1L caps should be the same. The reason being that different bottles are used to keep the inks from getting mixed, as it will trash the lines, subtanks and heads when the incompatible inks react.