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Does the orange ink have a particularly abrasive/corrosive pigment in it? Or is it a high pigment ink like white? Never really noticed issues with orange pigmented ink being a particular problem. However, my experience with orange is just on Epson TFP printheads with aqueous ink, never on a Mimaki.

White ink is a nightmare without a proper circulation system, had lots of folks ask me to work on their crappy Chinese UV printers and it's always the main issue.

Dampers are really a pain to test, but they are pretty cheap. I almost treat them as a troubleshooting part as the procedure to pull them to check is basically what you'd need to do to replace them anyways. They're also a consumable, so pick up a spare if you feel up to the task of changing them...

If you just want to slap down the ink, lots of DX7 compatible inks. Just get some refillable carts and load them up. Fun part is the shaker and oven.

Might need a tech to reflash firmware or parameters. Lack the manual for the TX300P-1800, but checked the error for the TS300-1800P. Not quite the same printer however.

Yeah, posts got nuked by admins, never got a reason.

Might let you set the version, but yeah, nay botched update can brick things in general.

Can give the firmware updater a try, but usually gives a message that the firmware is a special version and to contact your dealer or something. https://mimaki.com/topics/product/software/mimaki-updater.html Should be installed already with RasterLink, but that's the standalone one.

Need to find me a service manual for mine, so don't have the reference handy. Barely used my CJV150 (needs a head), but a common issue with DX7 stuff in general.

Might be able to just unplug the pump motor and go from there. Typically just a stepper motor without an encoder for feedback. Alternatively, if it's a MK 1, just remove the blue roller cap on the pump and will quiet the thing down a lot.

Might check the Mutoh forums instead of bumping the thread. General consensus on a lot of the Chinese UV printers seems to be what you save in cash; you pay for in downtime. When buying a printer, you want to factor in service, printers that can be serviced by qualified people tend to be way...

Might be getting air in the capping station, not a huge leak as you stated cleaning clears it up. Check your capping station adjustment, might just need to be tweaked a bit for a better seal.

If you feel daring, $5 in tubing and some silicone grease will fix you right up to rebuild the circulation pumps.

Best bet is look for connector issues, see if the cable is snugly fit and squared in its connector. The connections can be quite stiff, so can bend the flex cable or even snap conductors. That said, error conditions from service manual attached.

If you want someone to reverse engineer your printer and make it print with crazy inks, I am your guy.

Primer and clear are spot colors, buy a liter of flush and clean out a bottle. Split the flush between 2 bottles and toss those in the ink bottle station. Keeps the heads wet and clean so they can be used in the future and the fluid level sensors are fine. Can also just use some of the...

Using a UCJV300-107 here, and loving it for decals, textured prints, transparencies and even posters. Mimaki printers are the main workhorses here (2x UJF 6042 MKII, 2x UJF-3042 MKII and a CJV150-107 as well as the UCJV300-107). I like that it has a robust service mode that lets me check most...

Could be ink restrictions starving the nozzles and the like, did you flush the ink system perchance? And as always, check to see if the capping station is resting flush and getting a good seal.

I like this idea, seems a bit more bulletproof. Kapton is working for now, but UV ink is THICK and I think the Kapton tape might not work with some solvent or aqueous inks. The cutout method works, but it is a massive pain in the butt for me, since the squares are 0.125" and finicky to align. I...

This will just change date/time, parameters and such are in non-volitile memory on the EPL2/3/5 mainboards.