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stay away from used printers, if possible. nothing but threads of headaches on this forum. then again, same can be said about posts regarding the car racing graphics market. lol. stand your ground, set your timeline, & charge your rate. rush job demands will be common, & sponsorships for...

i've done a few of these for local gas stations & coffee shops. pick your poison vinyl, but since these are usually applied by the customer then I opt for air-egress/controltac/etc. Doesn't especially need to be cast, if you're looking for a better price-point ...as the graphic can wrap-around...

the devil is in the details.... stain resistance is resistance to adhesion. try vinyl designed for LSE plastics, like arlon 8000 or 3M IJ39 (edited to add some mad-scientistry: i've also made surfaces for receptive to adhesion via corona-treatment of the surface prior to application)

just tell your client that the graphics are only "crooked" because they have too much air in their rear tires.

the alcohol in your solution is causing your wet application to grab prematurely. no reason for it to be in there, unless you want something AGGRESSIVE. just soap & water & good application technique.

yes, you use these tables as your regular graphics table when not utilizing the roller feature. as for cutting/usage, we use our table a LOT. Heavy box-knife cuts of coroplast will take its toll, but regular xacto trimming of graphics barely make a dent in the surface. haven't replaced my...

bad stock, or bad comms, or bad heads. ink limits are more of a quantity rather than a quality-thing.

speaking a second language is the BEST, when people assume you dont know it. autotranslate & voice apps will make it all a breeze soon enough, and then amazon/google will have fullfilled yet another step in its master plan.

we've mounted channel letters atop a flexface cabinet before.... the secret's in the sauce, but they're definitely not just "hung on the banner".

can you still wrap a car with a flat tire?

ummm. I'm no rocket surgeon, buuut

i think the hardest part is realizing the line doesn't move in your print adjustments... you just select the proper value and off you go. ....and I know this, because well, I did it too. Kept "chasing the line" and my values became so extreme that you would have though i attached a tattoo gun...

Welcome to Signs101 Shouldn't be hard to find someone in your area, have you tried these guys?

Onsrud, Belin, & Armana have been great brands for me. Carbide Spiral O Upcut bits are worth the cost over plain steel bits, as they will last much longer & cut wonderfully. downcut bits aren't that great unless you've machined a "valley" around the perimeter of the shape you're downcutting...

I'm only experienced with the original machine you converted, and the original Epson printheads that were built-into it. whenever I had that level of haze on a printhead, I replaced it and the problem went away. i would be inquiring with the printhead/conversion supplier as to why these "brand...

nozzles appear to all be firing but the Cyan & Magenta appear to have a haze of ink around the pattern that could be causing your graininess.

"Um waiter, I asked for NO SWASHES with my Lobster & Prime Rib. kthx"

I print & cut on separate machines, which I think is still the optimal workflow. buuuut for anyone dead-set on a combo setup, anything and everything from mimaki has always made my pants shrink.

yup, on black reflective vinyl lettering that was applied to sign panels a day or two after it was painted. curled corners & perimeter of ALL the 2-4" lettering on twenty or so double-sided 3'x4' sign panels. no laminate. so source of failure was entirely limited to paint & stock reflective...

heck, even autobody paint will declare 60-90days before you can wax a new paintjob before giving proper time for paint to cure. A bit much for sign purposes, but I'll usually give it a solid 3-4+days for reflective depending on time of the year. reflective vinyl traps solvent gases that...