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I read somewhere that Microsoft's philosophy is that, if there is available memory, it should be used as much as possible to improve performance. They basically cache the programs you use most often so they load a little faster. Doesn't seem to improve performance that much to me.
Any software that allows you to make a spot color called "CutContour" will allow you to make a single print/cut file. That's exactly what Flexi does except they have a dedicated button for it.
Have you tried using the scale settings in the Windows display settings? It doesn't change the resolution but changes the scale of the a lot of UI features and fonts etc.
Check the bottom of the head for ink build up and clean it up. It looks like it could be ink dragging along the print. Also, check your pressure system to make sure it's producing the correct negative and positive pressures. If either are off, it can cause issues like this.
Your yellow head is probably on it's way out. These heads can print multiple sized dots. When printing in high speed, low res, it uses a single sized, large dot. When printing in high quality mode, it uses the other sizes together to create the best print. So basically think of it as the head...
I haven't used Vertilith yet but I would assume so. The way Flexi makes cut lines is exactly how you make it in Illustrator. Flexi has a special button that does it but it's still just making a spot color named CutContour and applying it to the cut line. Pretty much every RIP recognizes that...
What you need is the Mutoh Status Monitor. unmateria is correct about not needing the MSA to do it but on that model, you need the MSM software in order to get to the head alignments etc. since the machine doesn't have a panel/display. If you Google it, it should pop right up.
I just ask our guys to CC me the PO so I know what's in the pipe line and don't get blindsided. But if they want to order instead of making me do it, more power to ya!
Checkout this page for profiles - https://mimaki.com/product/inkjet/i-flat/jfx200-2531/download.html
Not sure why Mimaki hides it on people but there are many profiles you can try there.
Edit: Here's the page for your EX version -...
Most RIPs have an option to turn off color calibration / profiles but then it usually oversaturates. The best of both worlds is what they usually call "color replacement" in most RIPs where you tell it to override certain colors with specified CMYK values. That way you still get the benefit of...
Here's a link to the profile page for you machine. Mimaki hides it. https://mimaki.com/product/inkjet/i-flat/ujf-6042/download.html
This is where techs get the profiles they set machines up with usually so the one you were using should be in there. Might have to do some trial and error. Just...
I grew up in New England and a lot of towns have historical districts, usually main street, where even the color of your house has to be a from a certain approved set. The town I went to school in wouldn't let McDonalds put in a location because of the yellow arches.
That would be my concern as well. I've seen some pretty durable stuff on recent machines but don't know enough to tell you for sure. Might be worth the $86 to just get the motor. The machine is a relatively new model so finding someone parting out a machine might be hard but could be another option.
We used to use straight Goof Off as a last resort on trouble heads lol. It worked some times and delaminated others. I think it also has to do with how old the head is too. The newer the head, the easier to recover in my experience.
I think you mean MS41 inks but if you're certain it's MS51, let me know as I need to do some learning!
In my experience with Mutohs, it never stops when they expire like Mimakis. It just keeps on going until it's empty. They trust you to make that decision.
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