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This latest round of new machines seem to be geared more towards start ups and smaller shops. They also just released the CJV200 where a 64" print/cut is $12k but much slower than the previous CJV150. I agree the price difference between the small JFX200 and the regular sized one is pretty...

I'm sure there are counties that have tougher regulations for sure. Once the ink is dry, the organic solvents have evaporated into the air so they won't be leached into the ground. But your county might be more worried about the nickel in the cyan ink and the carbon black in the black ink that...

Doesn't look like they support it in Flexi. It looks like it's based off a GCC cutter but doesn't look exactly the same. You could try setting it up as one of the GCC model options as pretty much all cutters simply use the HPGL language to communicate but it could do some funky things. Might be...

Yeah it's probably the thermistor and/or the heaters themselves. If you feel the platens and they are cold/room temp the heaters or heater controller is probably shot. If it gets really hot and still doesn't start printing, it's more likely the thermistor. It could be a mix of those though.

I'd say it's a defective head which is very rare but not unheard of. Seems like it may have a short somewhere telling that nozzle to fire all the time. We too have installed Mutoh heads into Mimakis for many years without issue. They're all Epson at the end of the day.

Exactly like the above comments. If you have a bunch of it, many gallons, hire a waste company. If you have a little, let it absorb and dry into kitty litter or saw dust and once dry, throw it out.

There are ways of doing it but it's all about if it's worth the hassle, time, and money. For dye sub and DTF you could just find an ink supplier that sells the ink with Roland chips. But then you would have to make your own profiles and you might never get it perfectly dialed in. You wouldn't...

It's the part that the cap is attached to. Those little pegs that slide up and down when the head docks can become flat on the bottom and cause the alignment issues.

I've run into this issue many times on these models as they age. A lot of good advice above. Also, a lot of the time it's the cap slider that is worn out and not allowing a good cap alignment to be made. Changing the entire capping station or just the slider a lot of the time fixes it.

I don't have a ton of experience with it to be honest. Usually the auto setting works for most. I would definitely contact your dealer and see what they say. To me it seems like the head might not be firing properly and might need adjustment. I've seen heads do weird things when the firmware...

The spot option is what adjusts the white. If you don't have clear, you don't need to worry about the clear option. Does your nozzle check print 100% of the nozzles?

You may have done this but just to put it out there, make sure you adjusted the MAPS2 settings specifically for the white. They separate the settings for the color, white, and clear in the menus so if you just did the color settings, it wouldn't affect the white. Also, make sure your lamp...

That's either going to be a dirty or damaged encoder strip or an electrical issue with the head/cables. I could clean the encoder strip first as that's the most likely culprit.

I guess those new college grads who know how to use the Tensor Flow library in Python don't come cheap these days!

Check out coinkdistributions.com. They can make you some chips.

$400 is almost definitely a scam. I would be very careful.

The memory itself doesn't go bad usually. Just the dirty terminal. Usually if it isn't the memory, it's another component on the main board that has fried.

A common problem with these older Mutohs was the main board memory. Especially on the 1204. The oldest 1204 still had removable memory. If that's the case on yours, try removing it, air dusting, and then reinstall it. That would fix the issue of not powering on a lot of the time.

I've seen people use solvent inks years out of expiration. UV is definitely more problematic and tends to have shorter expiry dates. I heard from a chemist that it has to do with the way the pigments are suspended in the fluid and over time they lose that ability. Basically the pigments start...

I would test the encoder in service mode. If it's working, you might be looking at a new main board unfortunately. If it doesn't work, you might just have a bad sensor. To test the sensor: -Power on while holding the up, right, and down buttons -Once it boots, scroll down to the, "Inspection"...