Search results

Oh gotcha. Yeah that complicates things. Rasterlink won't let you put those marks on for sure. Hopefully someone has a macro or plug-in they use that they can recommend!

Have you tried using the copies function in Rasterlink? You can just design one sticker, save it as a PDF, send it to Rasterlink, tell it how many you want to print and cut, it will nest them for you and you can choose the spacing etc. and there's an option to add a cut line which would make it...

What's your machine model? They're hard to find on Mimaki's site but they're there. It's specific to machine model though so let me know and I can send you a link.

Any damage on the head surface? Looks like maybe there was a head strike.

I can serve 4 customers with email in the time it takes to serve one on the phone and I can go back and reference the emails to serve them better in the future. I get why some people like phone calls better which is why we still do it but at the end of the day, more customers get what they need...

Processing in RIPs is all going to be similar due to the nature of the process. It can't be parallelized which is why graphics cards and multi threading doesn't help other than when you're RIPing multiple jobs at once. So most RIPs are going to be similar although some are better at doing...

We still take calls but it's very inefficient. When all of our lines are busy, we have multiple customers who just call over and over and over again without leaving a message. Send me an email! I'm sure one day I'll be old enough where I'll be emailing someone and they'll say, send me a tic tok...

I don't know why anyone calls anymore. It's such a time suck. We also just switched to an IP phone service that uses voice to text and emails us. Sounds like it should save us a bunch of time!

If I had to guess, I'd say it's the bias alignment that's off but definitely do all the alignments in order as Newei mentions.

It might be an 1/8th" but they don't publish that detailed of specs anymore. I'm just trying to remember off the top of my head but it's around that range for sure.

If I remember correctly, the tolerance for length accuracy on that machine is +/- a quarter inch (0.635 cm) over 8 feet (~244cm). So you should expect a little difference at the length you're printing and should add a bleed to compensate. That being said, if you're using Flexi, try running the...

Pretty much any DX7 head will work. They are all made by Epson. The only thing you have to watch out for is some are filled with shipping fluid for different types of inks. In my experience it's not a big problem and if you're worried about it, you can flush it out with a syringe before...

No problem, it's what we do! Yeah you can boot without a connection for sure. Unfortunately that error confirms it's a bad main board. It means the CPU is malfunctioning.

This Mutoh DX7 printhead. It's a rebranded Mutoh printer.

You can adjust the origin position but it requires the sensor to be able to detect. So even if the adjustment is off, it wouldn't give this error. I have an updated manual, which I can't give out unfortunately, and it basically just says, if the sensor doesn't trigger, replace the sensor and if...

In theory, yes. I've never tried it to be able to tell you for sure but it's worth a shot. The only issue might be is it will just error out on Y before ever getting to the X test. And yes, that's the same sensor we're talking about. We call it an interrupt sensor but same concept.

If the X origin sensor is being physically triggered and you still get this error, the sensor is either unplugged or damaged. Replace the sensor and if that doesn't fix it, unfortunately it could be a main board issue. My bet is on the sensor though. Also, try cleaning it with alcohol. It might...

Pay attention to the training about the maintenance. If you maintain the printer properly, you should have very few issues down the line. Many people either completely ignore it or do it infrequently and they're the ones who end up needing heads sooner rather than later.

Take a look at this chart. It will tell you where to position the lamps depending on how many layers and in which order they are. This chart is specifically for the LUS 120 inks. That should help cure the inks properly. It's one of those things they don't teach you in training so I see a lot of...

Oh color!