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We buy ours direct from EFI. You can go here https://communities.efi.com/ssoLogin and set up an account. I just email a PO in to inkjet.support@efi.com

3551 is a intermediate removable film. You need a good cast vinyl for this. I would still thicken the lines up some but for this I would use cast vinyl. Proper cleaning and install is critical here as well. You are saying that is the only vinyl you have on hand but you can order a few yards...

well your a manufacturer so good try at the "we now use" line. You still have to make a plate to go on your machine.

not sure if it was a setting or not because we didn't select it but running flexi on our summa and it stays at the end of the job and does not roll back to the starting point.

not sure if the 170 has profiles. the 570 probably does as it is run using the Epson Edge software. Any profiles for the 570 woudl not work on another pritner as they can only be read by the Edge software. That is the risk taken when converting printers that don't have a rip program.

I would not consider those Mimaki machines fast by any means. They do print good though. We run a 6042 MKIIE and a 3042. We also have a inkcups X5T that prints 4-5 times faster.

We had our electrician install a surge protector on the panel. I will hit that and protect all circuits. It covers the whole building instead of doing each individual device.

We use the AirMask and it works ok but still lifts. Where are you buying the 992U from. I checked all the local places we use and none stock it.

we used Gill for them in the past. They are printed on a coated 18pt paper stock. They are a lot cheaper than coroplast.

every material, different knife blades etc will be different settings. Go as fast as you can without damage to the material. If you can successfully run at 150 do it.

In all reality you can buy one of those xtools laser engravers and a vision 1212 engraver and be under $20,000. Then Accent Signage for the license and tool probably $2,500-$3,000. You have to make a lot of ADA signs to make up that money. If you don't have other business to use a laser and...

We laser cut the raised lettering and use a Xenetech to punch the holes for the braille and hand punch the beads. No where near 1.5 hours to make 1 sign, maybe 10-15 minutes max.

I don't wear gloves for anything from roll to roll printing/laminating, and flatbed printing. Been doing it for about 15 years and don't have any issues. If your hands are clean you should be just fine without.

They would have to tint the windows first then you would apply the graphics on top of that. It will darken the prints but you would lose the silver reflective properties putting it behind the graphics.

Your not getting a printer that prints a full sheet under 60 seconds for $125,000 lol

Switch to UltraMount and your problems might go away. yes its a lot more money but charge accordingly. Over the years I have printed and cut down hundreds of cases and never had an issue with it. I have a Zund but knife cutting is pretty straight forward.

Weld would probably be stronger than tape. On mesh I recommend webbing to strengthen the hem so grommets dont rip out. I used to weld banners and have switched to stitching but tape wont strengthen a hem. Remember with mesh you are just missing a lot of material of standard banner material so...

You can but the hem isn't very strong.

Well i dont trust a heat gun to check them as sometimes you can get wrong readings. They make strips to place on the platen that are more accurate. but if your heat gun is showing sporadic heat levels you may not even be getting to 300 degrees when the directions say 330 degrees. I would fix...

Check all of your presses to make sure they are at the actual set temperature. Over time they can lose some of that or a temp sensor can fail. If the manufacturer says 330 and you are at 300 that is part of the problem. I always double check time/temp/pressure settings as over the years...