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In general you want to print with heat but turn it off when cutting. I know Mimaki printers have a setting that automatically turns off the heat after printing.

Running it without the heads installed will most likely give a head temp error. It needs to get a reading from the head thermistor and if it doesn't, it defaults to too cold.

They try to play it off as if it's protecting the customer from themselves and pretend like there is some proprietary information in service mode they need to protect. At the end of the day it's all about padding their bottom line and they don't care at what cost to the customer. The only thing...

Yeah you should be fine if it's a full blown Flexi and not one of those brand specific versions. I'm not sure if it will RIP two files at once but it will allow simultaneous printing once the files are RIPed.

I'm just getting in and hearing about this this morning so bare with me if I don't have all the facts yet. First of all, we're going to work with you and Mutoh to get this resolved ASAP. I already have an email into them this morning. So rest assured that is in the works. Secondly, the issue...

Unfortunately, if the fuses are good, this usually means the head is fried. Did you check the fuse on the CR board as well. It's the board the other end of the head cables plugs into. Normally cables don't cause the head to not fire at all. If the cables are bad you usually either get a head...

The easiest way to do it is going to be doing everything through Flexi since that is where you want to print from. It sounds like you can get the registration marks to read in Flexi but the alignment is off? What you want to do is create a file that prints and cuts a crosshair. Then print and...

Do you see ink in the ink lines above the dampers? Does ink flow into the waste tank when running cleanings?

You most likely popped a fuse on the main board. It's a tiny ceramic fuse that is located on the corner of the board right by the large black heatsink. I believe it's labeled F2 or F3. If you know how to test fuses, you can test it first but it's almost always the fuse when the head goes through...

That means the Cyan and Magenta Cartridges aren't reading properly. Try reseating the cartridges first. Sometimes the cards are just misaligned.

Check your computer's power saving settings first. A lot of the time when a network drops out mid print, the computer goes to sleep or the network/disk are set to turn off after a certain amount of time.

Unfortunately it looks like an electrical issue. I would check your head cables for damage, corrosion, or ink splatter and change if needed. You can try cleaning the encoder strip as well as it can sometimes look like electrical issues. It could be a damaged head or other board in the system as...

Yeah I was confused when I wrote that comment back in January. It's only the JV100 that has the 2 liter not the UJV.

Post the prints for the alignment and we can doublecheck. It seems the head is crooked.

This is the problem with refillable cartridges. It exposes the ink to air and over time the pigments separate from solution and settle to the bottom. You'll need to clean everything out and start with some fresh ink.

I've helped 100's if not 1000's of people fix their own machines in my career. Most of my customers fix their own printer but there is a good percentage of them who get a tech just to be safe. It's not for everyone but I've found that sign people tend to be small business owners and...

You most likely need to flush your pump lines to make sure they aren't partially clogged and then change your dampers especially if they are on the older side. If you flush the line and the dampers are new, it's possible the head has internal damage but it's almost always the dampers or a...

Are you using a bulk system at all?

If you load some media and scroll it forward by pushing the down button, does it skip or making a chunking noise at all? How does your nozzle check look?