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Yep, for pin mounted letters painted them front and back.

I have used PVC for panels or letters on outside signs. Sometimes the exterior grade, sometimes not. Always painted both sides. Haven't noticed any issues. One was a set of address numbers a client needed in a hurry so I cut them painted and stud mounted. They were still looking good 10 years...

Usually flaming them will do the trick, but we use a vinyl made for these plastics.

I think having a EV truck and a shop with solar panels (and maybe battery storage) will be the way to go. But for now it isn't practical since I don't own my shop space and EV trucks are too rare. I did get solar at home last year and may consider a EV car if the production from the panels is...

Thanks for all the replies. I decided I didn't want to get into a big experiment so quoted it using using white gatorfoam and noted if they really wanted to pursue the kraft face option it would cost more. Let's see if they are serious.

Thanks. Hadn't thought of the ink coverage consideration. The client was asking to have a material like corrugated cardboard printed but I didn't think that would work, so I thtought kraft face gator might be closest. .

Can 1" thick kraft face gator board be flat bed printed? THanks

We have used Peachtree and were happy with the product and the sign. We added Gemini letters & installed.

VHB

also interested

We use 20" numbers for the tops of the cruisers we do

Yea, what's the point? It must be your fence so why not just replace that section with the sign and add fencing to the bottom?

We'd trace it onto the new acrylic cover sheet and cut with a jigsaw. Like Brad said, get some cheap thick insulation foam board to cut on, makes it easier. We used to do these on a bandsaw, remember one place that had the deepest throat bandsaw I ever saw, they could do 6' letters.

I have used 2 part marine varnish successfully on exterior wood projects for many years. I also have done gold leaf/painted names on wood boat transoms over varnish. They would apply multiple layers of varnish and the scuff it before I lettered it using size and one shot. They would then apply...

Keep it simple. Get the name of the responsible onsite person and have a simple sheet acknowledging the work was completed. Have the installer take photos to document the install.

Yes, the drum is the "rolling pin" Like High roller said, go real slow and double cut.

Piece of ACM with aluminum angle on each side or bend .080

Done this a few times

The sprockets don't look terrible, the roller is a little beat, but wow, the drum looks pretty bad. Probably from too much blade pressure cutting right thru the material. You're not supposed to cut all the way thru sandblast, just enough so it pulls off. You also should use a 45 or 60 degree blade.

It's hard to sell used printers in poor shape to anyone in the trade other than someone who wants parts or enjoys rebuilding. And since shipping is uually out of the question I usally sell them on craigslist or similar, as is and cheap just to get rid of them