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Going to take a couple tries and a few hours just to set up a template for those rear doors like that.

Mounted to substrate? going to be a nightmare lining all those panels up! I would have went with sintra if you had to do mounted panels. Mural looks good! Can I ask what PPI/DPI you set the file up at?

Also, dial in your bit settings for EVERY different material and keep a spreadsheet of it. That way you know what speeds everything runs best at on everything, this will save you wasted material, time, and bits. We use a dry-erase board here to keep track of our settings. Over time our routing...

These are some of the ones on Amazon that our router operator loves using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YRG5NT4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PBDJ9MG These are also good, but not as frequently used here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P7LGQJ6/ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PZF52MW/...

Honestly, it looks like your heads are either mis-aligned, or on their way out from all of the photos posted. If you're running that high of a pass count your image should be crystal clear. Only other thing would be to load in some premium material and see if the problem persists. I have had...

Maybe you could dye them black?

I'm the template guy, I use scrap Phototex to make custom expanded templates. https://www.signs101.com/threads/phototex-for-templates.119932/ Share a photo of what the concept is (why it needs to be so custom) and what vehicle you're doing and we might have some pointers for you. Might...

You want to use transparency settings to get the appropriate black to red fade. In Illustrator you will put the images (grayscale) over the red and change the transparency to something like Multiply or darken, etc (whichever looks better). In photoshop you can make each image a duotone image...

The sensor is located on top of the head carriage.

FWIW, We bought the expensive bits for years, then switched over to buying most of our bits off of Amazon for a very small fraction of the price. Still stock & use a few expensive bits, but most of our regular everyday cutting is done with bits that cost around $2-3 each and work just as well.

Don't use the 3M Conspicuity tape, unless you REALLY have to. Cut 280 white reflective is the go-to for things like NFPA 4" striping.

I would recommend routed 1/8" polycarbonate, reverse 2nd surface prints on clear, with white laminate (backer). Regular standoffs will be fine, MBS sells a variety.

Last time I had to do what I think you are doing, I used knifeless tape and kept it about 1/4" outside of the old graphics, then put the sheets on and pulled the tape.

We make our own striping here to match any department's particular pattern. Gerber Omega software and Gerber printers/plotters are a specialty niche combo for work like this. They will print and plot ANY length of striping perfectly every time. Especially effective if you need something like a...

We do a lot for museums around here; nothing fancy for the most part. Just use quality materials.

Last time we couldn't find a 2080 color from any of our regular US vendors we ordered from this link above, and they had it, shipping was also quick from Canada.

Yes sir, but we do buy a decent amount.

I think, not 100%, but one or the other can only be used a a "top" foil and cannot be printed onto/over?

The foils will all have a small bit of writing along the edge of one side, so that should say pretty much what is left on each.

Sounds like you need some new distributors, you're getting screwed on prices. 54" 3M Wrap Vinyl & Laminate costs us around $1100 for the pair. Also, you need to make 1 or 2 profiles for your printer and your most common vinyl. Then, use those profiles for everything. You may have to hire out to...