Search results

VENTILATION out of the room. They stink. Pumping AC in is good, but got to get the fumes out. Material storage, think vertical. You're going to need around 5' x 20' of that area easily just for materials storage. And then you'll need clear area in front of that to get it on to the printer...

Rasterlink really isn't worth much. It's a pretty bad program. You can get a subscription to Flexi RIP now for only like $40/month to run these machines.

Your best bet is to find a local guy who just cuts vinyl or makes shirts or something similar who wants to expand and just see what he offers. Keeping the printer running a few more months waiting on a higher offer is going to cost more in ink/maintenance than your gains will be.

I've always appreciated when I could collaborate with other great minds. Many people are too narrow minded to understand the need (gains) of others input, whether it be positive or negative. Many are fearful of competition. I had a great friend that we always bounced ideas off of each other...

I thought that this was what the "Premium (paid) Section" of this forum was for, but when I was a premium member nobody ever posted or replied in those areas. I did not renew my subscription.

With bad heads and plotter issues you're looking at $500 for the pair honestly. Rip software included might double that price, but its hard to find buyers for used equipment with problems. We had a couple JV3 printers w/o issues and had trouble selling them a few years ago.

Its all together and ready to be hung tomorrow!

Weird, looks a lot like the Hp latex. Nothing at all about ink stretch-ability, looks like more made for flat surfaces than wraps.

We had lamination issues with the UltraMatte 3M Laminate. It left bubbles that didn't ever go away in dark areas. We laminate all day every day and do not have this issue with any other laminates. 3M refunded the rolls and we never tried it again. Regular 3M 8520 is a good matte laminate.

Look at the 2nd image. This is a sacrificial set of letters. The "real" letters were being painted while the others were attached to the framework getting welded together. It seems no matter how well you think you cover it up weld spatter finds its way to the letters and discolors or damages...

The file itself is RGB. That's problem numero uno. I'm assuming your color profiles are CMYK. They're just 2 different spectrums.

American Captain, stretched.

Important: the direction of the tape. Use vertical taping whenever possible instead of horizontal. Think about how gravity is pulling on these and the surface area/direction it is pulling against and it'll make sense. We also add the dab of silicone but we add some green tape as insurance for a...

We're already on to our 2nd living wall sign. Did a few things differently this time. Pics below should explain a lot of the process for the curious. ;)

You need to profile your printer yourself and create your own custom profile based off that. After that, you need to fix your files' color-space issues.

We keep our printers and print media in their own room so we can control the humidity around them better than the entire shop. We have AC or heat running constantly and still run 3 dehumidifiers constantly year round, one of them is in the print room.

Thinner lines and lettering are more prone to peeling/failure over time with air release vinyl.

Get a GFP 563th. We had a Arctic Titan and Seal laminator and they were horrible. Finally got a couple 563th laminators and they blow them away. Full rolls all day every day without issue.

Looks like straight on photos of the real cars are what you need then. Take photos at the dealership and apply cut paths. Scale them to whatever size for your kits.