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Check out GMS (Graphic Marking Systems) for lots of hard to find vinyls. We print on foils often.

Mutoh 4 position marks in Flexi. Set up your prints and bleeds, then add your contour cuts. Make sure the contour cuts are not grouped with the printed pieces as sometimes they will not be seen. select what you intend to print and cut and at the top the Contour Cut Mark button should become...

if your shape is accurate, you could create a file with black in just that 1/2"(?) area and print that. It would essentially give you a second hit of ink on the edge without doing so on the face. (If your image bleeds, you could mask off so that only that outside 1/2" prints again.) Just print...

We recently added a UCJV330 Mimaki. We have a Roland XR640 which has been reliable for about 10 years. The Mimaki has been fast and excellent quality. We had a little learning curve with the new RIP software - none of us had used Rasterlink before. The machine does like to sleep and is slow...

TyrrellTech 888-865-0300

Not much to go on here. What machine is doing the printing and what machine the cutting. Our old Roland requires you to position the marks a certain way and then hit the "Base Point" button, it will cut without doing that but will not read the marks before cutting and cut would be off.

Looks like the ink was still tacky when this was cut. Solvent inks react with the vinyl and need time to off gas - I would suggest printing today and cutting tomorrow if you are not going to laminate.

We use the GF110 Dry Erase Laminate and have never had a problem. We use it over OraCal 3551 Rapid Air (polymeric intermediate) and Avery 1105MPI (cast vinyl), as well as directly on to printed substrates. I think you are having an incapability issue. Try a different base vinyl, maybe a cast...

I really like the General Formulations 226HTR (High Tack Removable - I know, both high tack and yet removable - amazing). We have found there are walls where this is not the best choice, so our default wall vinyl is MacTac Rebel 528 High Tack - sticks to almost any wall. Biggest problem we have...

Probably the best advice anyone here can give you is to buy as locally as possible from a vendor that services that brand. Both Summa and Graphtec are good machines, but when you have a problem, nothing like having the guy who sold it fix it - a national seller might leave you holding the bag...

Interesting that your tech said he replaces Graphtecs with Summas all the time. We had two different vendors tells us that they almost never need to fix a Graphtec but they do have to address Summa problems all the time. Everybody makes a lemon once in a while I guess.

We get over 50 54x50yd rolls of vinyl between cutting strips on our FC9000. Maybe your guys were not using the channel to cut all the way through? We considered a Summa, but have a twenty something year old Graphtec that is incredibly durable - and the price was lower of course.

The FC9000 has a channel and a cutting strip - you manually change the blade to the one you are using.

On the Roland in VersaWorks you can do 1x ink, or 2x or 3x. 2x Doubles the amount of ink used... sometimes handy when printing on translucent vinyl. You can also print twice on clear, laminate one, and lay it over top of the other if it looks too pale when lit up. On your Epson, you likely have...

The disadvantage of Alumalite for this application is the corrugated centers - home potential for unwanted garden bugs - plus it is not much less expensive than regular solid core ACM. We use aluminum composite material a lot. I am not much of a fan of using 3mm on posts as strong winds can bend...

We did something similar printing on clear with optically clear lam. We designed in Flexi and I think we ended up using 2x ink (Roland EcoSolvent printer).

888-865-0300 Tyrrell Tech Pomano Beach or Orlando

We switched from Oralite5650RA to 3M 680CR for fire trucks and police vehicles - not inexpensive but better for wraps. For flat signs, we use Nikkalite. The Nikkalite is inexpensive and prints pretty well, but worst stuff to peel up ever.

If you are doing flat surface trailers, you could switch to OraCal 3551 Rapid Air and shave another $70 or more off per roll. Use the same Briteline Overlaminate as a premium overlaminate extends the UV life of 3551 (OraCal recommends 3551 with their 290 Cast laminate for box trucks and other...

I would recommend sticking with the factory brand inks. A lot of times aftermarket inks do not have the same quality, non-clogging flow. They can also mean a change in your color spectrum. We have been running our Roland (ecosolvent) on factory inks for 9 years without issue. We use factory inks...