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We use a FluidColor R84 Turbo with Gen 6 Ricoh heads - a 4'x8' true flatbed printer. We arrange the signs in Flexi, send over a Jig with just a printed outline and then use that to align the blanks and then print with a second file of the actual signs laid out in the exact same pattern. The...

The pinch rollers on your Roland may need replacement. Also, you might need to adjust the offset for the vinyl (plus lam?) to get a better cut. But we went to a Graphtec FC series so our printers print and cutters cut... lol. The time wasted on cutting now means I have more time to print things...

You may have to rasterize it in your design software before sending over to your RIP software

We run a FluidColor UV Flatbed printer (HandTop Chinese printer is the base, some modifications by FluidColor) that uses Ricoh Gen 6 heads and can say they are the bomb! Great resolution and reliability, and easy to maintain. I understand that the Kyrocera heads are better if you are doing...

Why so small? You can likely find a old Gerber Edge which uses punched 15" rolls and prints up to 11.8". But price points on full size UV printers are pretty good - like the Mimaki UCJV300. It is available in 32", 42", 54", and 64" widths. Since the UCJV330 is now out, there are some decent...

I agree with DL Signs. Will Add that I would use a cast product for this due to weather and sunlight exposure. In Avery I would use MPI 1005 EZ (EZ is air release, I would not use the RS as that is wrap vinyl and will require post form heating) or Oracal/Orajet 3951 RA (Rapid Air release, not...

One last thought, if you decide to keep seams, make sure you lay the vinyl starting in the back and then the front so your seam edges are to the rear - wind and rain won't affect them when driving down the road.

You must run a knife down where the aluminum panels overlap and not bridge as it will spilt and raise. We size our print panels about an inch larger (or an inch on both sides if we have it) so the finished product has no seams. Since we set the panels up in Flexi, we can put two smaller panels...

We use SAi Flexi and set up the signs to fit within 4'x8'. We then copy that and delete everything but the outside shape of each sign and put a 0.01 stroke on them. Then we send over the jig file and the print file, print the jig right onto the flatbed, lay al the aluminum pieces inside of the...

We use a FluidColor UV ink flatbed and print aluminum all the time. Use a true flated but remember it can only print one thickness of material at a time (so all 063 or all 040, but no mixing of thicknesses in a single run as it sets one head height per run). We print a jig onto the bed and load...

I really like General Formulations GF830 and Arlon SLX Cast Wrap plus vinyls. Oracal 3951 with ProSlide is good as is 3M IJ180. The first two are the most affordable, the second two are good but more money.

We use our FluidColor Flatbed UV printer to make things like this for one customer. We rip it at High Quality print mode (600x1200 dpi) and print it also at High Quality (which is unidirectional) for best resolution. We laminate ours (cause we laminate most things) so they should hold up at...

Holy shades of Tokyo Drift Batman... If that doesn't get noticed, nothing will.

Since you want to learn: First thing I see is a sign laid out like a business card with very little hierarchy. All the stuff in the teal section is the same height. When making a sign it must be set up to convey at a glance - too much info and that will not be successful. So you must have in...

I concur that it sounds like something on their hands discoloring the lamiante - like freon. We use a different laminate - Oraguard 290 Gloss. It was a 10year laminate, but Oraguard now calls it an 8 year and uses 10 year for their new pvc free line. The 4 year of 1360 isn't very long for a cast...

We use Cast vinyl for window applications - 10 year longevity, can handle temperature extremes (hot and cold), doesn't crack, easier to remove for changes. You do not gain anything by laminating it, so no need to laminate. Apply dry with simple, overlapping, squeegee passes. Avery makes great...

We are on our second UV printer. The first was a CET and we had the usual issues with air bubbles in the lines after filter changes and bulbs getting weak as they age, but otherwise it worked well. To replace this printer we bought a FLuidColor printer. Also a HandTop based printer, but with a...

No. Everything is custom, so quoted. One customer may just want one word, and another a full design with photo and artwork. For marketing, you could say "competitive pricing", "fast quotes", "Customer service is our priority", "let our experts help you today", etc...

I was going to recommend the Fluid Color Flatbed printer - White plus CMYK, Ricoh Gen 6 heads - but then I see you are from Melbourne (Australia?). So not sure it is available to you. Mimaki makes a nice one though too.

Assuming you know how to laminate a 60"x120", to apply such to your substrate I have a suggestion. Place substrate on the laminator table. Center the roller. Two or more people needed, next align the four corners so they are even - tape the two sides. Drop the roller about 1/3 or the way down...