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Good call on the 4 bottles. I was thinking flushing just the clear but if you do it the right way, the white would also be flushed at the same time.

I looked in the dealer portal for the ink change procedure but I didn't find one. I have done this conversion on JFX200 machines which use the same head system and ink. In that case Mimaki requires you basically change everything out that touches the ink and flush the system. So bottle holder...

I've never done it on that model or RIP but have you tried using a CMYK only profile? That used to work on the old Mimaki JV3s.

The sign shop I used to work for did something similar and the radio had a service for voice over. Ask them!

This machine actually uses a 5 micron filter when flushing the lines. It won't hurt the machine but if it does cause issues switching back should fix it.

Sounds like it could be a failing damper. Is there ink in the line? When a damper fails or if an air leak happens anywhere along the ink line, the ink naturally recedes back to the cartridge. Dampers should be changed every 18 to 24 months.

Change the ContourCut spot color to CutContour and it should work.

The full solvents would actually feel warm if you got them on your skin. I cringe at the amount of times I worked on those machines without gloves as a yougin.

They are on the main board. They are larger transistors that are attached to a big heat sink. It's biggest thing that sticks up off the board. I would also suggest testing the fuses again. A lot of times what happens is the fuse pops, you replace it, and then it pops again because the root...

We sell OEM and aftermarket parts for those machines. With after market parts you have to be careful because there are all kinds of low quality manufacturers out there especially when it comes to dampers. If you buy from us you can be sure that we've tested the aftermarket parts so you don't...

It reduces static. I've seen plenty of old machines out there without one and they worked fine. Just know that if you start getting over spray etc, that could be the cause.

The primer is much more harsh than the other inks so it requires a different subtank that is made out of metal instead of plastic. In my experience it eats up the heads much faster than the regular inks. So hopefully there is someone on here using the primer regularly who can tell you if it...

Your tubes are probably partially clogged. I would pop the cap top off and flush each line including the air release tube. You should be able to flush solution all the way through to the waste tank with only a little resistance. If not, just keep pushing through until it feels nice and clear...

Sounds like a faulty station. Taking it apart and putting it back together again is not easy and even then it's no guarantee it will work. I'd contact the person you bought it from. If it was us, we'll get you a new one.

I would clean the encoder disk behind the left side cover. It might be skipping due to a grease smudge or ink/dust build up on the disc.

Throw some new cap tops and a wiper in there and flush the pump while you're in there. Sounds like the seal between the cap tops is not keeping the heads protected anymore and if you have to do a powerful cleaning, the pump just might be partially clogged and not pulling hard enough.

Mix and matching memory tends to hit performance. I'd take a look at your system specs to verify what the computer thinks is installed.

When entering service mode it will look exactly like regular mode until you go into the menus and see the # menus. #Adjust, #Test, # Parameter etc.

Some DNS server must have gone down somewhere. Lot's of top sites down at the moment.

The Mimaki is a standard size. It's much harder to find 20" material that isn't from Roland. At the end of the day they both print about the same speed and quality. I'd go with the Mimaki simply because of the size and they are easier to work on yourself.