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All naming your company something like, Xtreeem Grafix, does is make giving your email out over the phone harder.

Here in the US you'd get around $2.5k - $3k for a perfectly working SP300. With one failing head drop it about $1000.

Wet install with air egress vinyl is a no no. The water gets trapped as you have now seen.

Solution should only come out of the nozzles of the channel you're flushing. If it comes out of anywhere other than the nozzles, something broke inside.

That's a good question. We just started selling this for Mutohs but we have been selling them for Roland and Mimaki for years. No complaints on outdoor durability. My guess would be Bordeaux is just being overly cautious with their claims.

More soaks and cleanings can help. Last resort is hooking a syringe with cleaning solution up to where the damper connects to the head and pushing the solution through to flush the head. It's last resort because if you push too hard, it can break.

Try the 60 degree. It's made for cutting thicker material.

You'll be fine. These pumps are very robust these days. The only issue is that it's running without actually doing anything so it is getting normal wear and tear without any actual use but it's negligible. If you want to be over cautious you can just take the pump out and the motor will still...

It depends on what size you printed those images. 3000x2000 @ 300 dpi = 10" x 6.66" 3000x5000 @ 72 dpi = 41.66" x 69.44" Printing at their native size should produce good results in both. But let's say you enlarged the 300dpi image in the x axis to match the 72dpi image size. We would have...

If the power supply tested good, the main board probably fried from an electrical surge.

They will work in your machine with no flush required.

We've got them in stock here in the US. Feel free to contact us for a quantity discount! DX4 Roland Print Head

The new ink is here which means the old ink is going to disappear soon. Mutoh already is out of stock of the old style ink so the only remaining cartridges are in dealer stock rooms. I've compiled what I believe is most important about the switch below. If you have any of the following models...

I agree. Most of my customers are the DIY types and trying to save some cash on a tech. Lot's of tech savvy people in the sign industry believe it or not! Even then we still do field work because there are a lot of people who would rather have someone else do it to be safe/convenient. Makes...

Looks like it took them another month to sell off the old inks. No more old inks in stock at Mutoh. New inks are already on the way to us. You may also notice that DX5 based Mutoh printers (1204, 1304, 1604, 1614 etc.) are not mentioned. Those models are considered legacy now. I have not heard...

Head heat errors on Mutohs mean the circuit is shorting out. Check your head cables for damage or ink splatter and replace as necessary. At the end of the day, if it's not the cables, it's a dying head or a damaged main board.

You need to run the head slant first to make sure the head is parallel with the platen. That's what the lever on the right side of the carriage is for. Then run the bi-directional alignments in service mode. I'm not sure what N and Q alignments are.

Buy from a brand who believes in DIY repair. Unfortunately they seem to be getting far and few between. In my experience as a tech, Mimaki is one brand holding steady on that front. While they do hold their tech manuals and firmware update software close to the chest, once you get your hands on...

You do want to check the head slant even with a single head machine. The head needs to be parallel to the path of travel. Most of the time it's good between heads but you do want to check it because it will throw your other alignments off if it's out of wack. Other than that, run the drop...

Check your RIP settings. Sounds like you have double strike on. It is sometimes called overprint in some RIPs.