I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes.
Click to Support Signs101 ...
It works best if you have a light table. I start by adding a triangle or two to both layers in my file so the cutter cuts the triangle in the same exact place on each layer. then I lay transfer tape down sticky side up on the light table, lay the first vinyl layer down on the transfer tape but...
If it were me I would roll out enough transfer for both and lay both layers down using a couple registration triangles and then just use both release liners together.
Looks like it's definitely cross contaminating. The new cap top should help but also flush the cap tubes with cleaning solution while you are in there replacing it. That will tell you if the pump is clogged as well. Once you can get ink flowing properly through the station it should clear up the...
I'd probably run an air purge. If the nozzles are 100%, it must be an ink flow issues and air purge is a good place to start. It could still be a worn out head as well but you want to rule out all possibilities first!
This is how I entered the sign industry. Went to the head professor of graphic design at my school looking for an internship. He sent my info to a sign shop in town and they ended up hiring me FT.
Technically it should work. The two main differences between the machines is the firmware adds a faster motor speed and the dampers have been changed to keep up with the stronger ink flow required for the faster speed. All other parts are the same. Maybe your 1614 board is damaged too? You could...
It will be fine. Check your accessories for a yellow piece of metal. That is the official head lock and it screws into the Y Bar next to the head so it holds it on the capping station. If you don't have that, tape a piece of foam down to the platen and butt it up against the head carriage. That...
There's nothing inherently wrong with after market parts as long as you trust your supplier to choose the best quality ones. Some after market parts simply don't work but any supplier worth their salt will test them before releasing them into the field. As for where they are getting their parts...
The palette in the printer is more of a test print to make sure nozzles are firing correctly etc. It's not meant as a color matching tool. It also doesn't print with color correction which would be why it looks so different to anything you print out of Flexi.
I agree with above. Also, flush the tubes from the cap top through the pump. It's possible they are partially clogged and creating a siphon effect once you turn it off.
I'll be installing one next week as well. The screenshot looks pretty much like 6 but I hear the RIP engine has been upgraded to RIP faster. Been waiting to see if it's true!
Take a look in the settings of FineCut for a check box simply called, "Sort." If you turn it on, it will override the order you designed in and optimize it for quicker cuts!
That's a scam site. We stock them here in the US and you can talk to us over the phone. Right now I have the original head straight from Mimaki USA for $1895 which is $1020 off list price. If you want to save even more, we also carry the head without the head memory board and you just used the...
Sounds like the cap top or pump might be bad. If you got 3rd party cap tops, I would start by trying OEM. I've used tons of 3rd party dx4 caps and none of them worked as well as the OEM for whatever reason. If the caps are OEM, I would try flushing the pump tubes with cleaning solution. Make...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.