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Your cap top is not working properly or the tubes are clogged then. Did you get an OEM cap top or is it 3rd party? 3rd party ones tend not to work. You can also take a syringe and flush the pump tubes to make sure they aren't clogged.

Mutoh Cutters are made by GCC and in my experience GCC is not good.

Check the nipple on the manifold to make sure it's not cracked or broken. If that looks good, swap the position of the yellow and magenta dampers and run a cleaning cycle. That will tell you more about where the issue might be.

It's not too hard as mentioned above. If you find the adjustments aren't changing anything even though you are turning the screws, make sure the area where the head sits is nice and clean. Ink tends to build up between the carriage and the head bracket and it acts like glue.

Post a nozzle check. I bet the physical head alignments are out of wack.

I've done it myself with very poor soldering skills and was successful 1 out of 2 times. It depends on if there is any damage to the circuit itself. If it's just physically damaged, I'd say your odds are good. I don't know about bypassing chips other than a bootleg firmware upgrade.

I'm not sure of the details yet but Sign Warehouse sells it's own ink with those machines so they might not be affected.

Here's a link to Roland's web store. If it's not there, I'd assume it's discontinued.

Word on the street is Mutoh is about to introduce a new solvent ink in June. Supposedly dries faster. I can't 100% confirm but sounds like the old ink will be discontinued and there may be a conversion requirement similar to Roland's switch from TR1 to TR2 inks. Just a heads up!

How does your nozzle check look in the morning before you've printed? I'm willing to bet you have cross contamination. Usually that's going to be a cap top/maintenance station issue but it could be internal damage to the head.

Wishful thinking. The only thing that is repairable on that head is the manifold.

On those older Rolands you should just be able to take the cartridge out and put it back in to reset the ink counter. If that isn't happening, the tab is probably just sticking out too far. you can cut it or put some tape on there to hold it back but just keep in mind that it won't flag once...

Air dust the terminals on the main board, slider board and print heads. Then just double check each cable lead to make sure it's not damaged or dirty. Those cables tend to fail if you install them more than 2 or 3 times. The leads pop off the plastic.

Other than new blade, blade holder, and cut strip, take a look at the gear that moves the cut head back and forth. It's basically 2 gears of different sizes welded together and of that weld breaks between them, it cause the gear to slide slightly which caused jagged cutting. It's more rare but...

Fully vaxed here. Definitely takes a weight off. I even went on vacation for the first time in over 2 years!

Ok yeah so you changed the input profile and you want to install them as output profiles. I would go back into Rasterlink and change the input profiles back to the defaults. Then close Rasterlink and go find the Rasterlink folder. In there will be another program simply called Profile Manager...

I don't have a lot of experience with profiling but I do know that Rasterlink takes regular .icc files. Have you tried that and it still didn't work?

Many of these machines are designed and manufactured in places that use the metric system. They simply convert to the closest imperial measurement when marketing to the US. That's at least part of the issue. I'm sure there is more going on.

You're right that the machines are the same printing wise but unfortunately most, if not all, RIPs read the profile and only allow it to be used on the proper machine. Try just downloading some profiles from Mimaki's site. They have tons of them for the SS21 inks and one is bound to work well...

The software just does the math based on the profile you choose. Once the file is processed for printing, it just counts the dots and picoliter sizes to come up with a guess. It can't be perfect because the heads don't always fire exactly the size dot it's supposed to but it's close enough. That...